Once upon a time, newspapers provided professional restaurant reviews. The restaurant critic was to be feared as praise could promote a restaurant but a public pummeling could give it a black eye as well. Such a critic was the the first Epicurious at the Clarion-Ledger. Making her debut in 1983, Bettye Jolly took on the restaurant scene to many a reader's delight. Posted below are some reviews of some restaurants still going strong and some forgotten. JJ published these ten years ago and figured it was time for a refresher post. Enjoy.
Sunday, September 15, 2024
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The Kingfish's Favorite Posts
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- Incest in Dixie: Mississippi Legal Profession
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Trollfest '09
Trollfest '07 was such a success that Jackson Jambalaya will once again host Trollfest '09. Catch this great event which will leave NE Jackson & Fondren in flames. Othor Cain and his band, The Black Power Structure headline the night while Sonjay Poontang returns for an encore performance. Former Frank Melton bodyguard Marcus Wright makes his premier appearance at Trollfest singing "I'm a Sweet Transvestite" from "The Rocky Horror Picture Show." Kamikaze will sing his new hit, “How I sold out to da Man.” Robbie Bell again performs: “Mamas, don't let your babies grow up to be Bells” and “Any friend of Ed Peters is a friend of mine”. After the show, Ms. Bell will autograph copies of her mug shot photos. In a salute to “Dancing with the Stars”, Ms. Bell and Hinds County District Attorney Robert Smith will dance the Wango Tango.
Wrestling returns, except this time it will be a Battle Royal with Othor Cain, Ben Allen, Kim Wade, Haley Fisackerly, Alan Lange, and “Big Cat” Donna Ladd all in the ring at the same time. The Battle Royal will be in a steel cage, no time limit, no referee, and the losers must leave town. Marshand Crisler will be the honorary referee (as it gives him a title without actually having to do anything).
Meet KIM Waaaaaade at the Entergy Tent. For five pesos, Kim will sell you a chance to win a deed to a crack house on Ridgeway Street stuffed in the Howard Industries pinata. Don't worry if the pinata is beaten to shreds, as Mr. Wade has Jose, Emmanuel, and Carlos, all illegal immigrants, available as replacements for the it. Upon leaving the Entergy tent, fig leaves will be available in case Entergy literally takes everything you have as part of its Trollfest ticket price adjustment charge.
Donna Ladd of The Jackson Free Press will give several classes on learning how to write. Smearing, writing without factchecking, and reporting only one side of a story will be covered. A donation to pay their taxes will be accepted and she will be signing copies of their former federal tax liens. Ms. Ladd will give a dramatic reading of her two award-winning essays (They received The Jackson Free Press "Best Of" awards.) "Why everything is always about me" and "Why I cover murders better than anyone else in Jackson".
In the spirit of helping those who are less fortunate, Trollfest '09 adopts a cause for which a portion of the proceeds and donations will be donated: Keeping Frank Melton in his home. The “Keep Frank Melton From Being Homeless” booth will sell chances for five dollars to pin the tail on the jackass. John Reeves has graciously volunteered to be the jackass for this honorable excursion into saving Frank's ass. What's an ass between two friends after all? If Mr. Reeves is unable to um, perform, Speaker Billy McCoy has also volunteered as when the word “jackass” was mentioned he immediately ran as fast as he could to sign up.
In order to help clean up the legal profession, Adam Kilgore of the Mississippi Bar will be giving away free, round-trip plane tickets to the North Pole where they keep their bar complaint forms (which are NOT available online). If you don't want to go to the North Pole, you can enjoy Brant Brantley's (of the Mississippi Commission on Judicial Performance) free guided tours of the quicksand field over by High Street where all complaints against judges disappear. If for some reason you are unable to control yourself, never fear; Judge Houston Patton will operate his jail where no lawyers are needed or allowed as you just sit there for minutes... hours.... months...years until he decides he is tired of you sitting in his jail. Do not think Judge Patton is a bad judge however as he plans to serve free Mad Dog 20/20 to all inmates.
Trollfest '09 is a pet-friendly event as well. Feel free to bring your dog with you and do not worry if your pet gets hungry, as employees of the Jackson Zoo will be on hand to provide some of their animals as food when it gets to be feeding time for your little loved one.
Relax at the Fox News Tent. Since there are only three blonde reporters in Jackson (being blonde is a requirement for working at Fox News), Megan and Kathryn from WAPT and Wendy from WLBT will be on loan to Fox. To gain admittance to the VIP section, bring either your Republican Party ID card or a Rebel Flag. Bringing both and a torn-up Obama yard sign will entitle you to free drinks served by Megan, Wendy, and Kathryn. Get your tickets now. Since this is an event for trolls, no ID is required. Just bring the hate. Bring the family, Trollfest '09 is for EVERYONE!!!
This is definitely a Beaver production.
Note: Security provided by INS.
Wrestling returns, except this time it will be a Battle Royal with Othor Cain, Ben Allen, Kim Wade, Haley Fisackerly, Alan Lange, and “Big Cat” Donna Ladd all in the ring at the same time. The Battle Royal will be in a steel cage, no time limit, no referee, and the losers must leave town. Marshand Crisler will be the honorary referee (as it gives him a title without actually having to do anything).
Meet KIM Waaaaaade at the Entergy Tent. For five pesos, Kim will sell you a chance to win a deed to a crack house on Ridgeway Street stuffed in the Howard Industries pinata. Don't worry if the pinata is beaten to shreds, as Mr. Wade has Jose, Emmanuel, and Carlos, all illegal immigrants, available as replacements for the it. Upon leaving the Entergy tent, fig leaves will be available in case Entergy literally takes everything you have as part of its Trollfest ticket price adjustment charge.
Donna Ladd of The Jackson Free Press will give several classes on learning how to write. Smearing, writing without factchecking, and reporting only one side of a story will be covered. A donation to pay their taxes will be accepted and she will be signing copies of their former federal tax liens. Ms. Ladd will give a dramatic reading of her two award-winning essays (They received The Jackson Free Press "Best Of" awards.) "Why everything is always about me" and "Why I cover murders better than anyone else in Jackson".
In the spirit of helping those who are less fortunate, Trollfest '09 adopts a cause for which a portion of the proceeds and donations will be donated: Keeping Frank Melton in his home. The “Keep Frank Melton From Being Homeless” booth will sell chances for five dollars to pin the tail on the jackass. John Reeves has graciously volunteered to be the jackass for this honorable excursion into saving Frank's ass. What's an ass between two friends after all? If Mr. Reeves is unable to um, perform, Speaker Billy McCoy has also volunteered as when the word “jackass” was mentioned he immediately ran as fast as he could to sign up.
In order to help clean up the legal profession, Adam Kilgore of the Mississippi Bar will be giving away free, round-trip plane tickets to the North Pole where they keep their bar complaint forms (which are NOT available online). If you don't want to go to the North Pole, you can enjoy Brant Brantley's (of the Mississippi Commission on Judicial Performance) free guided tours of the quicksand field over by High Street where all complaints against judges disappear. If for some reason you are unable to control yourself, never fear; Judge Houston Patton will operate his jail where no lawyers are needed or allowed as you just sit there for minutes... hours.... months...years until he decides he is tired of you sitting in his jail. Do not think Judge Patton is a bad judge however as he plans to serve free Mad Dog 20/20 to all inmates.
Trollfest '09 is a pet-friendly event as well. Feel free to bring your dog with you and do not worry if your pet gets hungry, as employees of the Jackson Zoo will be on hand to provide some of their animals as food when it gets to be feeding time for your little loved one.
Relax at the Fox News Tent. Since there are only three blonde reporters in Jackson (being blonde is a requirement for working at Fox News), Megan and Kathryn from WAPT and Wendy from WLBT will be on loan to Fox. To gain admittance to the VIP section, bring either your Republican Party ID card or a Rebel Flag. Bringing both and a torn-up Obama yard sign will entitle you to free drinks served by Megan, Wendy, and Kathryn. Get your tickets now. Since this is an event for trolls, no ID is required. Just bring the hate. Bring the family, Trollfest '09 is for EVERYONE!!!
This is definitely a Beaver production.
Note: Security provided by INS.
Trollfest '07
Jackson Jambalaya is the home of Trollfest '07. Catch this great event which promises to leave NE Jackson & Fondren in flames. Sonjay Poontang and his band headline the night with a special steel cage, no time limit "loser must leave town" bout between Alan Lange and "Big Cat"Donna Ladd following afterwards. Kamikaze will perform his new song F*** Bush, he's still a _____. Did I mention there was no referee? Dr. Heddy Matthias and Lori Gregory will face off in the undercard dueling with dangling participles and other um, devices. Robbie Bell will perform Her two latest songs: My Best Friends are in the Media and Mama's, Don't Let Your Babies Grow up to be George Bell. Sid Salter of The Clarion-Ledger will host "Pin the Tail on the Trial Lawyer", sponsored by State Farm.
There will be a hugging booth where in exchange for your young son, Frank Melton will give you a loooong hug. Trollfest will have a dunking booth where Muhammed the terrorist will curse you to Allah as you try to hit a target that will drop him into a vat of pig grease. However, in the true spirit of Separate But Equal, Don Imus and someone from NE Jackson will also sit in the dunking booth for an equal amount of time. Tom Head will give a reading for two hours on why he can't figure out who the hell he is. Cliff Cargill will give lessons with his .80 caliber desert eagle, using Frank Melton photos as targets. Tackleberry will be on hand for an autograph session. KIM Waaaaaade will be passing out free titles and deeds to crackhouses formerly owned by The Wood Street Players.
If you get tired come relax at the Fox News Tent. To gain admittance to the VIP section, bring either your Republican Party ID card or a Rebel Flag. Bringing both will entitle you to free drinks.Get your tickets now. Since this is an event for trolls, no ID is required, just bring the hate. Bring the family, Trollfest '07 is for EVERYONE!!!
This is definitely a Beaver production.
Note: Security provided by INS.
There will be a hugging booth where in exchange for your young son, Frank Melton will give you a loooong hug. Trollfest will have a dunking booth where Muhammed the terrorist will curse you to Allah as you try to hit a target that will drop him into a vat of pig grease. However, in the true spirit of Separate But Equal, Don Imus and someone from NE Jackson will also sit in the dunking booth for an equal amount of time. Tom Head will give a reading for two hours on why he can't figure out who the hell he is. Cliff Cargill will give lessons with his .80 caliber desert eagle, using Frank Melton photos as targets. Tackleberry will be on hand for an autograph session. KIM Waaaaaade will be passing out free titles and deeds to crackhouses formerly owned by The Wood Street Players.
If you get tired come relax at the Fox News Tent. To gain admittance to the VIP section, bring either your Republican Party ID card or a Rebel Flag. Bringing both will entitle you to free drinks.Get your tickets now. Since this is an event for trolls, no ID is required, just bring the hate. Bring the family, Trollfest '07 is for EVERYONE!!!
This is definitely a Beaver production.
Note: Security provided by INS.
29 comments:
Had forgotten about this. Made me smile.
I remember her columns and agree with her opinion of every one of the mentioned restaurants. It would be handy to have a trusted critic tasting dishes and commenting before I go spend $$$ to try some place new.
We have so few nice things in Jackson anymore. Thanks for the memories of times long gone.
And Jack Sunn would answer the type questions you would Google the answer to nowadays. I understand Jack Sunn was not one person, but rotated among the CL/JDN staff.
I waited on her table at House of Wong and got an A for service a hundred years ago. Many years later, my neighbor was writing that column and he panned a new steak place on Old Canton near the intersection of North State and they complained. The Clarion Ledger was afraid it would lose advertisers and ended the column.
How wonderful it must have been, to live in an era when the taste of food, was not overshadowed by worries about TIP ANXIETY (please waitstaff with a big tip, or risk criticism for overtipping ...or wondering how to let waitstaff know that you'll tip big, in order to not have your food sabotaged with poo or pee or spit), fears of which bodily products have been secreted into what one has ordered, and wondering from what criminal nation the (potentially toxic) food has been imported.
What a bygone era for Jackson, the CL, and newspapers in general.
I looked forward to Epicurious each week.
I didn't always agree with the reviews, but still enjoyed it.
The longer it ran, the more the critics seemed to take on a snobbish tone.
God Lord, they were reviewing Mississippi restaurants ...not Paris, New York or even New Orleans.
That iteration of Chesterfield’s (maybe between fire #1 and fire #2) was easily the best. That old building had partitions everywhere, so it was quiet and private. The bar was cool. The current one on 98 west shares the name but not nearly the vibe.
I always enjoyed reading the Epicurious column. However, I never understood why "Quantity" was one of the 5 review factors.
Remember Epicurious well but did not it was a female. I figured it was a crusty, old white dude who was balding. He/She was a kick-ass reviewer, for sure, who I found to be on target all the time.
Unlike that other person who you constantly give space to, who is more about his personal pursuits and worldly experiences, Epicurious was a superb entertainer and a valued addition to a long-forgotten newspaper.
It was several people over the years.
at the same time as epicourious there was actually someone who did wine reviews of wines sold in the liquor stores at the time.
whoever it was knew about as much about wine as i know about the backside of the moon.
they made a huge fuss over white zinfedales.
I miss the days of Widow Watsons, Swensens , Bennigans, Gridleys and Ralph and Kacoos… just to name a few. Jackson had a little bit of everything then and we were proud to live there.
We had the Clarion Ledger and Jackson Daily News delivered every day. Too bad one went out of business and one is not worth the price of subscription.
@5:48 PM you literally just listed a bunch of bankrupt chain restaurants. Why not add Chi-Chi’s, Steak & Ale, and a bunch of others that existed everywhere in American long before they came to Jackson!
i own a retaurant in jax for 38 plus years , she would as well as anyone else would probably skewer me but i wish they would bring that back. i loved reading it . somtimes right and sometimes wrong but allways intresting , prob get sued nowdays if you did it.......
It doesn’t matter smart ass. Jackson was safe and we had a sense of community.Those are my memories of wonderful places in the 80’s.
"they made a huge fuss over white zinfedales."
They probably even knew how to spell it correctly......
Seem to recall that Leatha’s BBQ in Columbia was the only restaurant in the state to receive the highest rating.
This comment has nothing to do with food, but 6:43’s memories of Jackson’s newspapers prompted me to say that in addition to those mentioned, there was also The State Times. Some folks even had a special mailbox for it, complete with the paper’s logo on it. So, at one time Jackson had three good news papers instead of the pitiful USA Clarion-Ledger that's now offered.
Epicurious - the original - Ms. Betty Jolly, did a great job with her column in the CL; one of the columns worth reading every week. And at that time (unnoted by you KF, but probably understood by many) she was an 'unknown' for many years as she visited many of Jackson's fine dining places with her husband, the Hon. Judge Grady Jolly (one of Jackson's prizes).
I plan to go back and read all of these old reviews, as they are certainly enjoyable. Started with the first (Walkers - still one of the best restaurants in the state) and brought back memories of the great Charlie Hyneman, a gentleman in every form. Yes, his bringing Walkers forward for a nighttime fine dining ( carried on tothis day by another great gentleman and restauranter ) was only one of his achievements. But in addition to his talents over a fine kitchen stove, I had the immense pleasure of having pan fried bream taken off the hook and into the pan; breakfast omlets with crawfish (boiled the night before at our campsite); and many other fine dining experiences at his other ventures prior to his leaving the metro area. Like so many others (toasted by Epicurious, and those that came after) he was one of the fine individuals who faught the tough life of operating a restaurant in our fine city.
Appreciate your repeating these columns; I'm sure I will find memories amongst the others as well.
Related to Judge Grady Jolly?
Leatha's was famous for 'dry' ribs. Took dry to a new level. At a bare minimum, ribs should at least be moist and tender when you bit off a mouthful. Those ribs were as dry as a rice-cake.
I have never taken a fish straight from the hook to the pan.
I always spoon-scale or filet my bream after taking them off the hook and BEFORE laying them 'into the pan'. May I suggest that for your next attempt?
From the earlier post: "'unknown' for many years as she visited many of Jackson's fine dining places with her husband, the Hon. Judge Grady Jolly"
If you know where to look you can still visit the slab of the burned-down Schooner's on Highway 18
I never ate at Leatha's in Columbia, but the Leatha's in Hattiesburg is nothing special. Good, but nothing special.
Not a fan of walkers anymore. IYKYK
How would you think "IYKYK", anyone in hell would possibly know why you are not a fan of Walkers anymore? What a stupid, leading nothing question/statement you posted? (And, no, I'm certainly not a regular or supporter of them, per se.)
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