Wednesday, September 11, 2024

Robert St. John: Michelin Dreams & BBQ Realities

This week's recipe: BBQ Ribs!!!

My 23-year-old son is starstruck. It's not Hollywood celebrities that have his attention these days—it's the stars awarded by Michelin for restaurant excellence. For over a century, the Michelin Guide has been handing out its coveted stars, a system that was started to sell tires but quickly became the world’s highest culinary honor. My son, who entered— what many consider the “Harvard of cooking schools”— the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, New York, a few years ago, has spent many weekends taking the 90-minute train ride south along the Hudson into Manhattan with his girlfriend, doing what I call "chasing stars." Most of their spare change goes to indulging in meals at the finest of fine dining establishments across the city.

I get it. They’re in culinary school, excellence is all around. I was there once (not at culinary school, but in a world where I spent decades eating, sleeping, and breathing fine dining). For years, I did my own version of "chasing stars," conducting research and development across the country, seeking inspiration for our white tablecloth concept. The skill, expertise, and dedication that go into a Michelin-starred meal is nothing short of extraordinary. Every time I've dined at a table in a three-star restaurant, whether in Rome, New York, or Napa, I’ve been humbled and impressed by the artistry. Those chefs are masters of their craft, creating food as art. And food as art is good. Very good.

But at this stage in my life, I’ve realized something: just as much as I can appreciate a beautifully plated meal that took several pairs of tweezers, hours of preparation, and years of training to perfect, I can also get the same amount of joy and satisfaction— sometimes more— from a dozen raw oysters at a dive bar or a slab of perfectly smoked pork ribs at a BBQ joint. In fact, these days, I find myself seeking out "real food" way more often than anything that requires a reservation a month in advance.

Fine dining is like visiting an art gallery. One can appreciate every brushstroke, every detail, and every carefully curated exhibit. But most times these days, I just want to loosen my belt, sit down with something real and messy, and savor the simple, casual pleasures. The truth is the satisfaction I get at the end of a meal doesn’t always come from the precision or the luxury of the experience—it comes from how good the food tastes and how real it feels. That’s the difference between chasing stars and chasing something real.



Today, I find myself just as happy with a roast beef po’boy from Domelise’s in New Orleans, a plate of Susan Spicer’s legendary barbecue shrimp, Frank Brigtsen’s squash bisque, or the BBQ at Donanelle’s on US 49 just south of my hometown. I crave fried rice at places where the line is out the door, and the décor hasn’t changed in decades. I’ll take pancakes from The Midtowner with the same enthusiasm— maybe more— as I would a foie gras torchon. In fact, you can give me a plate of hummus from a little hole-in-the-wall in Chicago or a heaping dish of General Tso’s chicken from Miss Shirley’s on Magazine Street, and I’m in heaven. These places, these "dives" and "joints," offer something you can’t always find in the sleek, Michelin-starred dining rooms: soul.

To be clear, there’s nothing wrong with fine dining. It’s an incredible experience to be in a restaurant where every detail has been painstakingly thought through, where every bite feels like a small masterpiece. But these days, I’m seeking something a little different— meals that bring me comfort, that remind me of my roots, and meals that make me feel connected to a place and its people. There’s something about sitting in a BBQ joint with a plate of pulled pork or beef brisket in front of you, the smell of smoke in the air, and an iced tea in hand, that feels just as special to me as anything you’ll find at a white-tablecloth establishment.

I spent years in fine dining, traveling all over, searching for inspiration, and I wouldn’t trade any of those experiences. They’ve shaped who I am as a restaurateur, and they’ve given me a deep appreciation for the craft of cooking. But the more I’ve traveled, the more I’ve come to realize that sometimes, the best meals are the simplest ones—the ones you stumble upon when you’re not even looking.

It’s not just about the food. Sure, I can overlook atmosphere and even endure lackluster service in a local joint if the food is good, but it’s the whole experience that matters. It’s the people, the energy, the stories behind the food that make a place special. Whether it’s a mom-and-pop diner, a late-night taco truck, or a barbecue pit that’s been smoking for generations, these places have a history and a heart that can’t be replicated.

I’ll never stop appreciating the incredible talent and hard work that goes into earning those Michelin stars, but for me, the chase is over. I’m not looking for perfection anymore. I’m looking for authenticity. I want to eat food made by people who love what they do, whether they’re a world-renowned chef or a guy making authentic tacos inside a food truck.

So, while my son is off chasing stars in Manhattan, I’m perfectly content chasing something else—something a little grittier, a little less polished, but just as satisfying. And you know what? I think that’s okay. There’s room for both in the food world. Art is important, but so is soul. Actually, he and I spent a few weeks together on his summer break, he is starting to see the beauty in the simpler side of our industry as well. That makes this dad happy.

And at the end of the day, the only thing that really matters is whether the food— and the experience of sharing it— makes you happy. That’s the beauty of it. There’s no right or wrong answer. You can have your Michelin stars, or you can have your dive bars. I’ll take both, but these days, you’re more likely to find me in a dark room with a dozen on the half shell and an iced tea.

Onward.

BBQ Ribs

3 full Rack of pork ribs-3-4 pounds each (3-inch/down)

2 cup White vinegar

½ cup Paprika

¼ cup Garlic Powder

2 Tbsp Onion Powder

1 Tbsp Black pepper, freshly ground

2 Tbsp Kosher salt

¼ cup Brown sugar

⅓ cup Sugar

1 Tbsp Creole Seasoning

1 prepared recipe of Barbecue Sauce

Place the ribs in a large roasting pan or baking dish and pour the vinegar over the ribs. Using your hand, rub all of the ribs with the vinegar and allow them to marinate for 1 hour. Drain the vinegar and dry each rack completely with paper towels.

Combine the spice mixture and coat the ribs completely. Cover and refrigerate overnight.

Prepare the grill. Cook the ribs over indirect low heat for 2 1/2-3 hours or until they begin to pull away from the tips of the bones and the entire rack bends easily when held in the middle with a pair of tongs.

Yield: 6-8 servings


BBQ Sauce

2 Tbsp Bacon Fat

2 Tbsp dehydrated onion

2 tsp Garlic, freshly minced

1/4 cup Brown sugar

1/4 cup Sugar

1/4 cup Molasses

2 cups Chicken stock

1 quart Ketchup

1 1/2 Tbsp Black pepper, freshly ground

1/4 tsp Cayenne pepper

2 Tbsp Dry mustard

2 Tbsp Lemon Juice

1/4 cup Worcestershire Sauce

1/2 cup Balsamic vinegar

1/2 cup Cider vinegar

Preheat oven to 300.

In a 3-quart Dutch oven, heat the bacon fat over low heat. Add the dehydrated onion and garlic and cook for 3-4 minutes. Stir in the remaining ingredients and place the sauce in the oven. Bake for 2 hours, stirring every 15 minutes.

Yield: 8-10 servings


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Trollfest '09

Trollfest '07 was such a success that Jackson Jambalaya will once again host Trollfest '09. Catch this great event which will leave NE Jackson & Fondren in flames. Othor Cain and his band, The Black Power Structure headline the night while Sonjay Poontang returns for an encore performance. Former Frank Melton bodyguard Marcus Wright makes his premier appearance at Trollfest singing "I'm a Sweet Transvestite" from "The Rocky Horror Picture Show." Kamikaze will sing his new hit, “How I sold out to da Man.” Robbie Bell again performs: “Mamas, don't let your babies grow up to be Bells” and “Any friend of Ed Peters is a friend of mine”. After the show, Ms. Bell will autograph copies of her mug shot photos. In a salute to “Dancing with the Stars”, Ms. Bell and Hinds County District Attorney Robert Smith will dance the Wango Tango.

Wrestling returns, except this time it will be a Battle Royal with Othor Cain, Ben Allen, Kim Wade, Haley Fisackerly, Alan Lange, and “Big Cat” Donna Ladd all in the ring at the same time. The Battle Royal will be in a steel cage, no time limit, no referee, and the losers must leave town. Marshand Crisler will be the honorary referee (as it gives him a title without actually having to do anything).


Meet KIM Waaaaaade at the Entergy Tent. For five pesos, Kim will sell you a chance to win a deed to a crack house on Ridgeway Street stuffed in the Howard Industries pinata. Don't worry if the pinata is beaten to shreds, as Mr. Wade has Jose, Emmanuel, and Carlos, all illegal immigrants, available as replacements for the it. Upon leaving the Entergy tent, fig leaves will be available in case Entergy literally takes everything you have as part of its Trollfest ticket price adjustment charge.

Donna Ladd of The Jackson Free Press will give several classes on learning how to write. Smearing, writing without factchecking, and reporting only one side of a story will be covered. A donation to pay their taxes will be accepted and she will be signing copies of their former federal tax liens. Ms. Ladd will give a dramatic reading of her two award-winning essays (They received The Jackson Free Press "Best Of" awards.) "Why everything is always about me" and "Why I cover murders better than anyone else in Jackson".

In the spirit of helping those who are less fortunate, Trollfest '09 adopts a cause for which a portion of the proceeds and donations will be donated: Keeping Frank Melton in his home. The “Keep Frank Melton From Being Homeless” booth will sell chances for five dollars to pin the tail on the jackass. John Reeves has graciously volunteered to be the jackass for this honorable excursion into saving Frank's ass. What's an ass between two friends after all? If Mr. Reeves is unable to um, perform, Speaker Billy McCoy has also volunteered as when the word “jackass” was mentioned he immediately ran as fast as he could to sign up.


In order to help clean up the legal profession, Adam Kilgore of the Mississippi Bar will be giving away free, round-trip plane tickets to the North Pole where they keep their bar complaint forms (which are NOT available online). If you don't want to go to the North Pole, you can enjoy Brant Brantley's (of the Mississippi Commission on Judicial Performance) free guided tours of the quicksand field over by High Street where all complaints against judges disappear. If for some reason you are unable to control yourself, never fear; Judge Houston Patton will operate his jail where no lawyers are needed or allowed as you just sit there for minutes... hours.... months...years until he decides he is tired of you sitting in his jail. Do not think Judge Patton is a bad judge however as he plans to serve free Mad Dog 20/20 to all inmates.

Trollfest '09 is a pet-friendly event as well. Feel free to bring your dog with you and do not worry if your pet gets hungry, as employees of the Jackson Zoo will be on hand to provide some of their animals as food when it gets to be feeding time for your little loved one.

Relax at the Fox News Tent. Since there are only three blonde reporters in Jackson (being blonde is a requirement for working at Fox News), Megan and Kathryn from WAPT and Wendy from WLBT will be on loan to Fox. To gain admittance to the VIP section, bring either your Republican Party ID card or a Rebel Flag. Bringing both and a torn-up Obama yard sign will entitle you to free drinks served by Megan, Wendy, and Kathryn. Get your tickets now. Since this is an event for trolls, no ID is required. Just bring the hate. Bring the family, Trollfest '09 is for EVERYONE!!!

This is definitely a Beaver production.


Note: Security provided by INS.

Trollfest '07

Jackson Jambalaya is the home of Trollfest '07. Catch this great event which promises to leave NE Jackson & Fondren in flames. Sonjay Poontang and his band headline the night with a special steel cage, no time limit "loser must leave town" bout between Alan Lange and "Big Cat"Donna Ladd following afterwards. Kamikaze will perform his new song F*** Bush, he's still a _____. Did I mention there was no referee? Dr. Heddy Matthias and Lori Gregory will face off in the undercard dueling with dangling participles and other um, devices. Robbie Bell will perform Her two latest songs: My Best Friends are in the Media and Mama's, Don't Let Your Babies Grow up to be George Bell. Sid Salter of The Clarion-Ledger will host "Pin the Tail on the Trial Lawyer", sponsored by State Farm.

There will be a hugging booth where in exchange for your young son, Frank Melton will give you a loooong hug. Trollfest will have a dunking booth where Muhammed the terrorist will curse you to Allah as you try to hit a target that will drop him into a vat of pig grease. However, in the true spirit of Separate But Equal, Don Imus and someone from NE Jackson will also sit in the dunking booth for an equal amount of time. Tom Head will give a reading for two hours on why he can't figure out who the hell he is. Cliff Cargill will give lessons with his .80 caliber desert eagle, using Frank Melton photos as targets. Tackleberry will be on hand for an autograph session. KIM Waaaaaade will be passing out free titles and deeds to crackhouses formerly owned by The Wood Street Players.

If you get tired come relax at the Fox News Tent. To gain admittance to the VIP section, bring either your Republican Party ID card or a Rebel Flag. Bringing both will entitle you to free drinks.Get your tickets now. Since this is an event for trolls, no ID is required, just bring the hate. Bring the family, Trollfest '07 is for EVERYONE!!!

This is definitely a Beaver production.

Note: Security provided by INS
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