Wednesday, October 26, 2022

Robert St. John: Sometimes I Feel Like a Magpie

PETROGNANO, TUSCANY— A few months after my wife and I started dating she wanted me to meet her grandmother. We set out on the road from Hattiesburg to north Louisiana, and I asked, “Where are we going?”

 

“Shreveport,” she said. Around the time we got to Jackson she said, “Actually it's in Minden Louisiana.” After we crossed the Mississippi River she said, “It's really closer to Ruston.” When we reached the outskirts of Ruston, she said “It's just a little outside of Homer.” She wasn't trying to be vague or hiding anything but the easiest, and more familiar, initial waypoint to give was Shreveport which was 50 miles away from the actual destination. 

 

It's no different than citizens of Germantown, TN, who— when out of town— respond to the question, “Where are you from?” by simply saying, “Memphis.” If you live in Marietta, GA and are speaking to someone in New York you say, “Atlanta.” The person from Metairie answers, “New Orleans.”

 

The question I am asked most when working overseas is, “Where will you stay?” When I'm doing this particular tour I just say, “Tuscany.” Though that is a very broad answer. That response covers any of 100 cities, towns, villages, and dots on the map. If I am speaking to someone in Tuscany, I use the name Tavarnelle. Though if someone in the Tavarnelle area asks where I am staying the answer is, “Outside of Barberino, near Petrognano.”

 

Petrognano isn’t even a town or village. It’s more of a small dot on a map— though not even on all maps— and nothing more than a one-mile stretch of road with a dozen farmhouses and a villa. It’s remote, and that is why I am here. I’ve been coming to this part of Tuscany since I discovered it in 2011. The villa we rent is very remote. It’s the last house at the end of a non-descript, bumpy gravel road that overlooks nothing but grapes and olives for 30 miles to the west. When I am hosting groups here, we are the only tourists the locals see. 




 

At least Petrognano is still here. The city of Semifonte has been erased from the map completely.

 

Once a week I take my guests on a casual stroll through the Tuscan countryside. We start in Petrognano and walk a mile up the road to a small chapel in the middle of nowhere. It's more than just a morning walk though. That one mile stretch of road covers from prehistory through World War II.

 

Millions of years ago this area was underwater as the Mediterranean stretched far inland. We have found dozens of fossils embedded in the roadside embankments, under the olive trees, and among the grapevines. Up from the villa, at the top of the hill, is an Etruscan tomb which dates back 700 years BC. 

 

The Germans set up a small headquarters at the main villa in Petrognano during second world war. The cypress trees that line the road leading to the villa still bear scars from where the German soldiers partially cut them, planning to fell the trees when the allies advanced. Fortunately, the Allied advance was too swift, and the Germans had to retreat quickly. The cypress are still standing.

 

Up the road from that villa is spring dedicated to Saint Catherine of Siena who once stopped there. Mothers nursing their babies still come and drink from that spring for good health. There's a beautiful monument built there that's over 500 years old. 

 

At the top of the hill is the Chapel of Saint Michael, which is an exact 1:8 scale replica of Brunelleschi’s dome in Florence. It's there to commemorate Semifonte. The town that once stood strong in this area.

 

Semifonte was a thriving city of 15,000 inhabitants located exactly halfway between the rival cities of Florence and Siena. Semifonte was growing quickly as it was situated along a very important trade route. Florence saw Semifonte as a threat and tried to take the city by force.

 

The citizens of Semifonte outlasted the Florentines for three years living inside their walls. Eventually, through some type of bribe from the inside, the Florentine army was able to gain access to the city and completely destroy the city. And when the historians mention, “completely destroy,” they mean it in a literal sense. They wiped it out to the point that nothing remaining from a city of 15,000— in an area that loves to protect its history— stands today. 

 

All the bricks and stones were taken and used to build the town of medieval town of Barberino just a couple of miles away. The local legend says the Florentines salted the fields so nothing would ever grow here. There are no descendants known from Semifonte. To make sure nothing was ever built there again Florence erected several towers in the area to keep watch and make sure nothing returned. One of those towers is part of the villa in which we stay.

 

I love the morning walk we do with our guests, because it describes how a one mile stretch of road in this part of the world contains so much history. It reminds me that everywhere I drive in the Tuscan region has a story and history behind it.

 

The road that runs through the neighboring towns of Tavernelle and Barberino is the Via Roma. It’s the road that leads from Florence to Rome. There are many sections of that road that seem nondescript with nothing apparently spectacular. Though that is the road that Michelangelo traveled when heading to Rome to paint the Sistine Chapel. The road is so old that when Jesus was walking in Jerusalem, people were also walking on the Via Roma.

 

There are a lot of magpies in this area. Some cultures see magpies as bad luck. Others tell of magpies stealing jewelry and other trinkets as they are said to be attracted to shiny things and collect shiny things. Sometimes I feel like a magpie. Not in the bad luck since, but in the attracted-to-the-shiny-things sense. It's easy to travel to Italy and want to see Michelangelo’s David or the Sistine Chapel. Those are most definitely “shiny things.” They are beautiful and historic and deserve to be admired. But in this part of the world there is so much more. I like to dig deep. I like to live where the locals live, eat where the locals eat, shop where the locals shop, and— at least for a few weeks out of the year— live as the locals live. I love taking a deep dive into Tuscan culture. Things are different here and that's a good thing. 

 

Over the years I have made many friends here. Some have come to see us in America. Others will visit in the coming years. In the meantime, I’ll keep introducing a couple of the shiny things to Americans as long as they want to keep travelling. But we will also be digging deep into the people, places, food, and culture of this wonderful, and history-filled, part of the world. That’s where the true life is, today.

 

Onward. 


Pickled Zucchini


2 cups              Zucchini, cut into 2” batons
1 cup               White vinegar
½ cup              Water
2 TB                Sugar
1 TB                Kosher salt
½ tsp               Crushed red pepper
1 each              Fresh garlic clove, thinly sliced

To sterilize, cover the jar and lid in water in a pot and boil for 5 minutes.

Pack the zucchini batons tightly into a sterilized 1-pint wide-mouth glass jar. 

In a small pot, combine the remaining ingredients and bring to a boil. Immediately pour over the jar full of zucchini, leaving about ½“ from the lip. Make sure you stir right before pouring so the crushed red pepper and garlic get into the jar. Discard any excess liquid. 

While still hot, tighten the lid and let cool completely at room temperature. Once cooled, refrigerate.


5 comments:

Anonymous said...

In my backpack salad days traversing Europe on a 1st Class Eurail Pass, I once enjoyed almost same view from a pensione balcony in Italy. The mistress of the farmhouse asked what I would like for dinner. I used crude high school latin to ask for meat, pasta, salad and wine and she "Capisced" the request.

Skip the tour, see Europe solo or with a friend/wife, as an adventure that unfolds as it happens!

Anonymous said...

Never met Robert St. John, but if I believed in reincarnation I would like to experience his life.
RMQ

Stuff About ZeroBear PolyBear said...

I am a resident of Planet Earth, of the Milky Way Galaxy. Sounds Intergalactic, doesn't it!

Amish Sugar Cookies

YIELD: about 5 dozen.

Ingredients

1 cup butter, softened
1 cup vegetable oil
1 cup sugar
1 cup confectioners' sugar
2 large eggs
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
4-1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon cream of tartar

Directions

1. In a large bowl, beat the butter, oil and sugars. Beat in eggs until well blended. Beat in vanilla. Combine the flour, baking soda and cream of tartar; gradually add to creamed mixture.

2. Drop by small teaspoonfuls onto ungreased baking sheets. Bake at 375° until lightly browned, 8-10 minutes. Remove to wire racks to cool.

3. Sprinkle a little sugar over the cookies when they are removed from the oven if desired.

Anonymous said...

I’m on the Italy tour… just walked the mile and ate breakfast @ the Chapel!

Robert is an incredible and interesting man. Looking forward to our next leg tomorrow!!

Anonymous said...

He better bring his ass back to Mississippi and shore up his new restaurant "ENZO". 3 on a 10.



Recent Comments

Search Jackson Jambalaya

Subscribe to JJ's Youtube channel

Archives

Trollfest '09

Trollfest '07 was such a success that Jackson Jambalaya will once again host Trollfest '09. Catch this great event which will leave NE Jackson & Fondren in flames. Othor Cain and his band, The Black Power Structure headline the night while Sonjay Poontang returns for an encore performance. Former Frank Melton bodyguard Marcus Wright makes his premier appearance at Trollfest singing "I'm a Sweet Transvestite" from "The Rocky Horror Picture Show." Kamikaze will sing his new hit, “How I sold out to da Man.” Robbie Bell again performs: “Mamas, don't let your babies grow up to be Bells” and “Any friend of Ed Peters is a friend of mine”. After the show, Ms. Bell will autograph copies of her mug shot photos. In a salute to “Dancing with the Stars”, Ms. Bell and Hinds County District Attorney Robert Smith will dance the Wango Tango.

Wrestling returns, except this time it will be a Battle Royal with Othor Cain, Ben Allen, Kim Wade, Haley Fisackerly, Alan Lange, and “Big Cat” Donna Ladd all in the ring at the same time. The Battle Royal will be in a steel cage, no time limit, no referee, and the losers must leave town. Marshand Crisler will be the honorary referee (as it gives him a title without actually having to do anything).


Meet KIM Waaaaaade at the Entergy Tent. For five pesos, Kim will sell you a chance to win a deed to a crack house on Ridgeway Street stuffed in the Howard Industries pinata. Don't worry if the pinata is beaten to shreds, as Mr. Wade has Jose, Emmanuel, and Carlos, all illegal immigrants, available as replacements for the it. Upon leaving the Entergy tent, fig leaves will be available in case Entergy literally takes everything you have as part of its Trollfest ticket price adjustment charge.

Donna Ladd of The Jackson Free Press will give several classes on learning how to write. Smearing, writing without factchecking, and reporting only one side of a story will be covered. A donation to pay their taxes will be accepted and she will be signing copies of their former federal tax liens. Ms. Ladd will give a dramatic reading of her two award-winning essays (They received The Jackson Free Press "Best Of" awards.) "Why everything is always about me" and "Why I cover murders better than anyone else in Jackson".

In the spirit of helping those who are less fortunate, Trollfest '09 adopts a cause for which a portion of the proceeds and donations will be donated: Keeping Frank Melton in his home. The “Keep Frank Melton From Being Homeless” booth will sell chances for five dollars to pin the tail on the jackass. John Reeves has graciously volunteered to be the jackass for this honorable excursion into saving Frank's ass. What's an ass between two friends after all? If Mr. Reeves is unable to um, perform, Speaker Billy McCoy has also volunteered as when the word “jackass” was mentioned he immediately ran as fast as he could to sign up.


In order to help clean up the legal profession, Adam Kilgore of the Mississippi Bar will be giving away free, round-trip plane tickets to the North Pole where they keep their bar complaint forms (which are NOT available online). If you don't want to go to the North Pole, you can enjoy Brant Brantley's (of the Mississippi Commission on Judicial Performance) free guided tours of the quicksand field over by High Street where all complaints against judges disappear. If for some reason you are unable to control yourself, never fear; Judge Houston Patton will operate his jail where no lawyers are needed or allowed as you just sit there for minutes... hours.... months...years until he decides he is tired of you sitting in his jail. Do not think Judge Patton is a bad judge however as he plans to serve free Mad Dog 20/20 to all inmates.

Trollfest '09 is a pet-friendly event as well. Feel free to bring your dog with you and do not worry if your pet gets hungry, as employees of the Jackson Zoo will be on hand to provide some of their animals as food when it gets to be feeding time for your little loved one.

Relax at the Fox News Tent. Since there are only three blonde reporters in Jackson (being blonde is a requirement for working at Fox News), Megan and Kathryn from WAPT and Wendy from WLBT will be on loan to Fox. To gain admittance to the VIP section, bring either your Republican Party ID card or a Rebel Flag. Bringing both and a torn-up Obama yard sign will entitle you to free drinks served by Megan, Wendy, and Kathryn. Get your tickets now. Since this is an event for trolls, no ID is required. Just bring the hate. Bring the family, Trollfest '09 is for EVERYONE!!!

This is definitely a Beaver production.


Note: Security provided by INS.

Trollfest '07

Jackson Jambalaya is the home of Trollfest '07. Catch this great event which promises to leave NE Jackson & Fondren in flames. Sonjay Poontang and his band headline the night with a special steel cage, no time limit "loser must leave town" bout between Alan Lange and "Big Cat"Donna Ladd following afterwards. Kamikaze will perform his new song F*** Bush, he's still a _____. Did I mention there was no referee? Dr. Heddy Matthias and Lori Gregory will face off in the undercard dueling with dangling participles and other um, devices. Robbie Bell will perform Her two latest songs: My Best Friends are in the Media and Mama's, Don't Let Your Babies Grow up to be George Bell. Sid Salter of The Clarion-Ledger will host "Pin the Tail on the Trial Lawyer", sponsored by State Farm.

There will be a hugging booth where in exchange for your young son, Frank Melton will give you a loooong hug. Trollfest will have a dunking booth where Muhammed the terrorist will curse you to Allah as you try to hit a target that will drop him into a vat of pig grease. However, in the true spirit of Separate But Equal, Don Imus and someone from NE Jackson will also sit in the dunking booth for an equal amount of time. Tom Head will give a reading for two hours on why he can't figure out who the hell he is. Cliff Cargill will give lessons with his .80 caliber desert eagle, using Frank Melton photos as targets. Tackleberry will be on hand for an autograph session. KIM Waaaaaade will be passing out free titles and deeds to crackhouses formerly owned by The Wood Street Players.

If you get tired come relax at the Fox News Tent. To gain admittance to the VIP section, bring either your Republican Party ID card or a Rebel Flag. Bringing both will entitle you to free drinks.Get your tickets now. Since this is an event for trolls, no ID is required, just bring the hate. Bring the family, Trollfest '07 is for EVERYONE!!!

This is definitely a Beaver production.

Note: Security provided by INS
.