Thursday, January 2, 2025

Robert St. John: Most Memorable Meals of 2024

For the past 25 years, my final column of the year has always been a list of the top 10 most memorable meals I enjoyed in the previous year. The list isn’t about the fanciest, most exclusive, or faraway dining experiences I’ve had—it’s about meals that stuck with me for one reason or another.

Side Note: We’re a dining-out family, and we eat locally in Hattiesburg a lot. I haven’t included any of those places on the main list, though they all hold a very special place in my heart. This year, I’s also like to share the top 10 local spots I frequent most often (in no particular order):

Donanelle’s: A dive-bar with great steaks and ribs.

Jutama’s: My go-to for great Thai food.

Petra: The best Mediterranean food in town.

Big Trouble: A mixed-bag Asian spot with a creative menu.

T-Bones: The best sandwich you’ll eat in a record store.

Mexican Kitchen: if you’re not from this area, you’re probably not going to get it. But if you grew up eating there since the mid 1970s, it’s likely one of your mainstays.

Wasabi: My favorite sushi spot in Hattiesburg.

Triangle Seafood: Legit po’boys made the right way.

Cuevas Fish House, Purvis: My go-to for fried catfish and hushpuppies.

Indian Delight: Authentic Indian comfort food.

Southbound Bagel: A reliable breakfast option when my breakfast joints are closed.

Here’s wishing each of them a prosperous New Year and positive cash flows in 2025.

Honorable Mentions

Laser Wolf, Brooklyn, NY: The best French fries and hummus I’ve ever eaten were at this lively spot on top of the hip Hoxton overlooking the river. Perfectly crisp fries cooked using a three-day process, and hummus so good it should be the gold standard for all that come after—both were a revelation.

Loblolly Bakery, Hattiesburg, MS: During a breakfast meeting with the leadership team to gear up for King Cake season, we got a surprise call: Loblolly had been named one of The New York Times’ Top 22 Bakeries in the U.S. High fives and shouts of joy, among bagels and buttery croissants made it a breakfast I’ll never forget.



The 2024 List

10. Christmas Eve Dinner at Petra, Hattiesburg

There’s a famous scene in the film, A Christmas Story where the family ends up at a Chinese restaurant after their turkey is destroyed by the neighbor’s dogs. My family’s Christmas Eve this year had a similar twist—minus the dogs. A chicken-and-andouille gumbo debacle was followed by a corn-and-crab bisque disaster. We abandoned ship and headed to Petra, where laughter over shared plates of Chicken Shawarma turned the evening into a joyful family memory. 9. Couscous Luncheon, Cefalù, Sicily

In October, I hosted my second RSJ Yonderlust Tour in Sicily. One of the most memorable meals was lunch at a sweet couple’s historic home—a former monastery perched high on a cliff overlooking the Mediterranean. The couscous they prepared was incredible, managing to edge out even a picnic lunch on Mt. Etna. For a meal to beat one served on an active volcano, it had to be extraordinary.

8. Swift & Sons, Chicago

Fifteen years ago, I took my then eight-year-old son on one of our early father-son trips to Park City, Utah. I introduced him to Ruth’s Chris’ for his first upscale steakhouse experience. Since then, it’s become “our thing.” This year, we shared dinner at Swift & Sons during the National Restaurant Association Trade Show. It was particularly special because next week, he’ll start his career with the Boka Restaurant Group, owners of Swift & Sons.

7. Terry Black’s BBQ, Dallas

I’m no stranger to barbecue, but my experience had been mostly confined to wood-fired smokers east of the Mississippi. I’ve known about Texas barbecue, but nothing prepared me for the marvel of a perfectly smoked beef rib at Terry Black’s during a catering convention I attended in Austin. After that first visit, I made two more trips to Terry Black’s, later in the year, while in Dallas, each time savoring the smoky, tender perfection of their beef ribs. (Note: the best place for beef ribs in Mississippi is at Sacred Ground BBQ in Pocahontas, more on that place next week).

6. Birthday Dinner, Purple Parrot Room at the Crescent City Grill, Hattiesburg

Each year, my wife asks me what I want for my birthday, and my answer is always the same: a small dinner with our closest friends. This year, Chef Nevil Barr outdid himself with an unforgettable menu just two nights before I left to work in Italy. Sharing that evening with dear friends made it even more special.

5. Le Bernardin, New York

For 25 years, I’ve sent countless people to Le Bernardin, praising Eric Ripert’s seafood mastery, but I had never dined there myself. This summer, while visiting my son, I finally checked it off the list. Ripert’s brilliance in handling seafood was everything I’d imagined. Their recent honor as the world’s number one restaurant was well-deserved.

4. Spanish Housewives’ Lunch, Malaga, Spain

When planning RSJ Yonderlust Tours, I look for authentic, local experiences. This year, we arranged for our group to split into smaller parties and enjoy home-cooked meals in the homes of Spanish housewives in a quaint little town in the Spanish countryside. Walking the cobblestone streets to their homes, being welcomed like family, and eating at their dining room tables felt deeply personal and unforgettable. It doesn’t get more “local” than that.

3. Emeril’s, New Orleans

My son completed his externship at the newly reimagined Emeril’s this spring, working under EJ Lagasse. At just 21, EJ is a powerhouse of talent, passion, commitment, and charm. Dining there was like stepping into a fine dining experience on par with The French Laundry or Per Se—Emeril’s is truly in a league of its own now.

2. Dinner in a Scottish Castle, Benderloch, Scotland

As part of an RSJ Yonderlust Tour through England and Scotland, we dined in a medieval castle north of Oban. Before dinner, the men donned kilts (yes, they’re as freeing as you’ve heard). Our host for the Scottish leg of the trip recited a poem by Robert Burns, bagpipes played, songs were sung, and haggis was on the menu. The evening felt like stepping into another time—a truly unforgettable night. A great time was had by all (and many of the men wound up buying kilts)

1. Graduation Dinner, Cote, New York

Two weeks ago, my son graduated from the Culinary Institute of America, the continuation of an eight-year plan. To celebrate, he chose Cote, a Michelin-starred Korean barbecue spot in Manhattan’s Flatiron District. As the dishes rolled out—perfectly grilled meats, inventive sides, and excellent condiments and sauces—we learned why he had insisted on it. It was a fitting end to his journey and the perfect way to celebrate his future.

Here’s to many memorable meals for you and yours in 2025.

Onward.



Black-Eyed Pea Hummus

Serve 6 to 8

2 teaspoons fresh garlic, minced

2 teaspoons kosher salt

1 teaspoon smoked paprika

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1/2 cup tahini paste

2 cups cooked black-eyed peas

1/4 cup fresh lemon juice

1/4 cup olive oil plus 2 tablespoons to drizzle on top when serving

2 tablespoons fresh chives, chopped

1/4 cup pinenuts, toasted

Eggplant Chips

In the bowl of a food processor, combine the garlic, salt, smoked paprika, cumin, tahini paste, black-eyed peas, lemon juice and quarter cup olive oil. Puree until smooth.

Spoon the hummus into a serving dish and top with the extra olive oil, chives and pinenuts. Serve with eggplant chips.


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Trollfest '09

Trollfest '07 was such a success that Jackson Jambalaya will once again host Trollfest '09. Catch this great event which will leave NE Jackson & Fondren in flames. Othor Cain and his band, The Black Power Structure headline the night while Sonjay Poontang returns for an encore performance. Former Frank Melton bodyguard Marcus Wright makes his premier appearance at Trollfest singing "I'm a Sweet Transvestite" from "The Rocky Horror Picture Show." Kamikaze will sing his new hit, “How I sold out to da Man.” Robbie Bell again performs: “Mamas, don't let your babies grow up to be Bells” and “Any friend of Ed Peters is a friend of mine”. After the show, Ms. Bell will autograph copies of her mug shot photos. In a salute to “Dancing with the Stars”, Ms. Bell and Hinds County District Attorney Robert Smith will dance the Wango Tango.

Wrestling returns, except this time it will be a Battle Royal with Othor Cain, Ben Allen, Kim Wade, Haley Fisackerly, Alan Lange, and “Big Cat” Donna Ladd all in the ring at the same time. The Battle Royal will be in a steel cage, no time limit, no referee, and the losers must leave town. Marshand Crisler will be the honorary referee (as it gives him a title without actually having to do anything).


Meet KIM Waaaaaade at the Entergy Tent. For five pesos, Kim will sell you a chance to win a deed to a crack house on Ridgeway Street stuffed in the Howard Industries pinata. Don't worry if the pinata is beaten to shreds, as Mr. Wade has Jose, Emmanuel, and Carlos, all illegal immigrants, available as replacements for the it. Upon leaving the Entergy tent, fig leaves will be available in case Entergy literally takes everything you have as part of its Trollfest ticket price adjustment charge.

Donna Ladd of The Jackson Free Press will give several classes on learning how to write. Smearing, writing without factchecking, and reporting only one side of a story will be covered. A donation to pay their taxes will be accepted and she will be signing copies of their former federal tax liens. Ms. Ladd will give a dramatic reading of her two award-winning essays (They received The Jackson Free Press "Best Of" awards.) "Why everything is always about me" and "Why I cover murders better than anyone else in Jackson".

In the spirit of helping those who are less fortunate, Trollfest '09 adopts a cause for which a portion of the proceeds and donations will be donated: Keeping Frank Melton in his home. The “Keep Frank Melton From Being Homeless” booth will sell chances for five dollars to pin the tail on the jackass. John Reeves has graciously volunteered to be the jackass for this honorable excursion into saving Frank's ass. What's an ass between two friends after all? If Mr. Reeves is unable to um, perform, Speaker Billy McCoy has also volunteered as when the word “jackass” was mentioned he immediately ran as fast as he could to sign up.


In order to help clean up the legal profession, Adam Kilgore of the Mississippi Bar will be giving away free, round-trip plane tickets to the North Pole where they keep their bar complaint forms (which are NOT available online). If you don't want to go to the North Pole, you can enjoy Brant Brantley's (of the Mississippi Commission on Judicial Performance) free guided tours of the quicksand field over by High Street where all complaints against judges disappear. If for some reason you are unable to control yourself, never fear; Judge Houston Patton will operate his jail where no lawyers are needed or allowed as you just sit there for minutes... hours.... months...years until he decides he is tired of you sitting in his jail. Do not think Judge Patton is a bad judge however as he plans to serve free Mad Dog 20/20 to all inmates.

Trollfest '09 is a pet-friendly event as well. Feel free to bring your dog with you and do not worry if your pet gets hungry, as employees of the Jackson Zoo will be on hand to provide some of their animals as food when it gets to be feeding time for your little loved one.

Relax at the Fox News Tent. Since there are only three blonde reporters in Jackson (being blonde is a requirement for working at Fox News), Megan and Kathryn from WAPT and Wendy from WLBT will be on loan to Fox. To gain admittance to the VIP section, bring either your Republican Party ID card or a Rebel Flag. Bringing both and a torn-up Obama yard sign will entitle you to free drinks served by Megan, Wendy, and Kathryn. Get your tickets now. Since this is an event for trolls, no ID is required. Just bring the hate. Bring the family, Trollfest '09 is for EVERYONE!!!

This is definitely a Beaver production.


Note: Security provided by INS.

Trollfest '07

Jackson Jambalaya is the home of Trollfest '07. Catch this great event which promises to leave NE Jackson & Fondren in flames. Sonjay Poontang and his band headline the night with a special steel cage, no time limit "loser must leave town" bout between Alan Lange and "Big Cat"Donna Ladd following afterwards. Kamikaze will perform his new song F*** Bush, he's still a _____. Did I mention there was no referee? Dr. Heddy Matthias and Lori Gregory will face off in the undercard dueling with dangling participles and other um, devices. Robbie Bell will perform Her two latest songs: My Best Friends are in the Media and Mama's, Don't Let Your Babies Grow up to be George Bell. Sid Salter of The Clarion-Ledger will host "Pin the Tail on the Trial Lawyer", sponsored by State Farm.

There will be a hugging booth where in exchange for your young son, Frank Melton will give you a loooong hug. Trollfest will have a dunking booth where Muhammed the terrorist will curse you to Allah as you try to hit a target that will drop him into a vat of pig grease. However, in the true spirit of Separate But Equal, Don Imus and someone from NE Jackson will also sit in the dunking booth for an equal amount of time. Tom Head will give a reading for two hours on why he can't figure out who the hell he is. Cliff Cargill will give lessons with his .80 caliber desert eagle, using Frank Melton photos as targets. Tackleberry will be on hand for an autograph session. KIM Waaaaaade will be passing out free titles and deeds to crackhouses formerly owned by The Wood Street Players.

If you get tired come relax at the Fox News Tent. To gain admittance to the VIP section, bring either your Republican Party ID card or a Rebel Flag. Bringing both will entitle you to free drinks.Get your tickets now. Since this is an event for trolls, no ID is required, just bring the hate. Bring the family, Trollfest '07 is for EVERYONE!!!

This is definitely a Beaver production.

Note: Security provided by INS
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