There are several places I have considered as my second home over the years. In my youth I spent summers on the Mississippi Gulf Coast and that seemed like a second home when we were at our fish camp. I have lived in Jackson, Mississippi several times and in the mid 90s— and today— I have businesses there. So Jackson certainly has felt like a second home.
But no place has felt like a second home as much as Tuscany. From the first moment I came here in September 2011, I felt as if I were— to paraphrase JohnDenver, “Coming home to a place I’d never been before.” I have often stated that I do not believe in reincarnation, but if I did, I am certain that several of my past lives occurred here. There’s just something about this area. It reminds me of the American South. It’s an agrarian society, though instead of cotton and soybeans, they are growing olives and grapes. The people are friendly and welcoming. They love family and they love sharing a meal. Those are just some of the reasons why I feel like this place is my second home. The other reason is the food.It’s not the style of the food, or the ingredients of the food, it’s the reverence that is given to the food by the locals. It’s the way I’ve always felt about southern cuisine back home. There is a pace over here similar to the pace lived in the American South. Life is little slower. Some things are just minor suggestions and not hard and fast rules. People take time to visit with one another and when that element is experienced it carries through to the dining experience.
If one took out the Covid years, I have spent a full year in this region in the last five years. I know the food well. It’s what I do. I eat for a living. Last week I began to think about my favorite meals and my favorite food items in Tuscany. Whenever I start thinking in those terms I get list happy. Therefore I made a list of the top Tuscan food items that I love. These are obviously personal selections and my own choices the list is certainly subjective and others will have their own favorites, but here are mine.
Top Ten Tuscan Dishes
10.) Nadia’s Mushroom Risotto, Petrognano— I typically don’t eat a lot of risotto in this area. When I am in Milan I tend to over order risotto. Though we have a chef that comes to our villa and cooks who makes excellent porcini mushroom risotto.
9.) Mussels, Trattoria del Peace, Bargino — A lot of people don’t think of Tuscan food and seafood. Though a major part of Tuscany is on the coastline and the Tuscans love seafood. They also know how to prepare seafood. I ate, what I thought, were the best muscles of my life in Malaga ,Spain three weeks ago. That dish got quickly surpassed by the muscles I ate in Barginoino a few nights ago. I have been to this seafood restaurant several times over the years but I have never taken a group. It is now in the permanent rotation. Seafood perfection.
8.) Sformatino at Pietracupa, San Donato — On the very first day, at the first meal, I serve my guests a savory mushroom pudding with eggplant and a light cheese fondue. It is excellent. And the perfect food item to kick off a great journey.
7.) Arrabiatta, Caffe Deli Amici “Paolo’s,” Tavernelle— I have said for years if I could get a Paolo‘s mama, Guiliana, over to America we would have one of the best Italian restaurants in the south. I did one better and sent my son to work in her kitchen. My favorite dish that comes out of that kitchen is a basic, and simple, spicy pasta dish. It’s a classic in this area and it satisfies my desire for a higher spice level like the food we have back home.
6.) Penne alla Bettola, Florence— Bettola is one of my favorite restaurants in Florence. My son, who lives there right now, has made it his favorite restaurant as well and eats in there three at least three times a week. This is the birthplace of what we know is penne à la vodka. Although I’ve ordered other menu items I’ve never not ordered the Penne alla Bettola. It is pasta perfection.
5.) Lemon and Sage Sorbet, La Fattoria, Tavernelle— Florentine steak is cherished over here. It’s basically a very thick T-bone that is grilled rare and sliced for table service. La Fattoria in Tavenelle, my favorite place for Florentine steak, does it well. They cook it in a massive fireplace and serve all sorts of other items like roasted potatoes, fried polenta, and spinach to accompany it. Though my favorite item in that restaurant is not the steak. It’s not even on the menu. It is a small lemon and sage sorbet palate cleanser that they deliver between courses. Riccardo the owner knows I love it so much that he brings me a couple of extra servings for dessert.
4.) Dario’s Olive Oil Cake, Panzano— When it comes to dessert, I always prefer a fruit finish to a chocolate finish. Anthony Bourdain called Dario Cecchini, “the most famous butcher in the world.“ His restaurants are excellent. He is a master butcher, but he is also an extremely talented and creative restaurateur. He’s known for his meats, or as he enthusiastically exclaims, “carne!” But I think what I like most at the meals I enjoy at his restaurants is the olive oil cake. He uses a whole orange— pith, skin and all. It’s very light and very flavorful. Desert perfection.
3.) Lasagna from Trattoria Mario, Florence— I typically don’t order or eat lasagna in Italian restaurants over here. Though I have made a couple of exceptions over the years. Trattoria Mario, an extremely popular lunch place in Florence, hosts my groups in a private dining room down in the basement of their restaurant. The lasagna is not on the menu, but it is the absolute best I have ever eaten. Period. End of story. There is a major difference between American Italian food and authentic Italian food. American Italian lasagna is over-sauced with marinara and incorporates a lot of cheese. The authentic version uses no tomatoes but a béchamel sauce and beef in Florence, or pork in bologna.
2.) Buffla Margherita pizza, Vecchia Piazza— I like the way most Tuscan pizza joints prepare pizza. It is wafer thin with minimal ingredients. My favorite pizza in this area serves an excellent Margherita pizza with buffalo mozzarella. I get them to add extra basil and use a little salt and pepper. Excellent.
1.) Sfoglia and Pappatacio, Bagnoli Bakery, Tavernelle— I am a creature of habit in the morning, no matter where I am in the world. I have been eating these two pastries for over 11 years. I have a routine that I follow over here. I wake up, take a shower, and then head to Bagnoli bakery in Tavernelle. On the way I stop at the same ATM to get cash for the day to tip the various servers, drivers, and guides we employ. I typically get to the bakery at 8 AM. My order is always the same. I get the Sfoglia, which is ham and fontina cheese inside a very flaky dough. It is not a typical breakfast item for people over here. It’s an item that workmen grab and stick in their pockets to eat for lunch. I like it for breakfast. It reminds me of the French croissant that has ham and cheese in it. Though the dough is much different. The Pappatacio is the Italian version of the French custard-raisin croissant. I love custard or Bavarian cream in anything. I also love raisins. These two are my morning go-tos every single morning in Tuscany.
Onward.
17 comments:
Great article.
Maybe next week Robert will read the room a little and give us some depression era recipes to stretch our budgets during this inflationary crisis. Especially since he advocated for, and received millions, of the “stimulus” that caused this predicament!
I'm gluten sensitive.
The guy's shtick is wearing thin.
You have to be a bitter, crusty old dude to constantly bash the one guy who writes feel good columns about Mississippi.
I've always wanted to visit Tuscany. I wonder if there are any places available to rent.
Zzzzz...
@10:50 AM - We lived in Italy for seven years. There are lots of places but on an American tourist visa you are limited to 90 days in Europe (Schengen zone). I met the owners of this Tuscany B&B which I linked above.
We had resident Italian visas.
@10:50, maybe the maestro can hook you up!
Sounds great and all, but how many hipster bowling alleys does Tuscany have?
Jackson 1, Tuscany 0
There aren't any places available in Tuscany. Don't even try to look.
Bean soup with truffles at Il Ristorante del Malborghetto in Lecchi in Chianti, Chef and Proprietor: Simone Muricci.
Vegetable Risotto at Hotel del Amorosa in Sinalunga, with a bottle of Il Vino Nobile de Montepulciano.
@1:52, Are you telling me there's not one house to rent in all of Tuscany?
My favorite is spaghetti o's prepared by Chef Boy ar D. The best is in Tucson
Well hell! I can only spend 90 days in Europe? Might as well swing through the Delta and on up to Graceland and back down through Enid for half a day of crappie fishing.
And I'm jealous of 11:59 for meeting the owners of a Tuscany bar. Shit...some have all the luck.
To prove I read the column (which was somewhat interesting):
"I ate, what I thought, were the best muscles of my life in Malaga ,Spain three weeks ago. That dish got quickly surpassed by the muscles I ate in Barginoino a few nights ago. "
@9:24 PM - the 90 days is the limit for an automatic tourist visa given to all U.S. citizens. You can contact an Italian consulate or research through their website to find out how to obtain a longer-term visa.
10:20 : And you have to be boosted and masked.
Post a Comment