Chef Hunter Evans, the man behind Elvie's and the newly revived Mayflower Cafe, joined Grant Callen on The Empower Podcast to talk about food, business, and why anyone in his right mind would leave New York City to open a restaurant in Jackson, Mississippi.
Evans trained at the Culinary Institute of America, worked in some of Manhattan's finest kitchens, and then came home to open Elvie's in Belhaven, with business partner Cody McCain. Six weeks later, COVID shut down the world. Not exactly the business plan they teach at culinary school. Somehow, he survived, earned national acclaim, and then decided one restaurant wasn't enough trouble. So he and his partners took over the Mayflower. The conversation covers everything from the economics of running a restaurant (spoiler alert: the margins stink) to Jackson's surprisingly impressive culinary scene. Evans even spills a little of the secret behind the Mayflower's famous comeback dressing. Kingfish may have to launch an investigation to uncover the rest. Evans is betting that Jackson's best days are ahead of it, and he's backing up that optimism with his own money. In a city where bad news is never in short supply, that's a story worth hearing. Pour yourself a glass of comeback dressing and give it a listen.This post is sponsored by Empower Mississippi.

43 comments:
Good luck…
Jackson has a lot of fast food restaurants
Meh, I’ve noticed meals here lately at downtown restaurants have not impressed. Compared to just a few short months ago.
Jackson has amazing restaurants. Many nationally noted chefs. Derek Emerson has multiple restaurants in the city that are incredible not to mention bravo and places like elvies. Walkers Pluto astera.
i'm sorry , i've eaten at the mayflower for 42 years, was my favorite. i have been 4 times after the renew, won't be going back . service is slow and not attentive and food not even close to what it was......you know, right ?
One of my sons grew up playing with Hunter Evans' brother. Quality NE Jxn family. I won't put myself and wife in jeopardy by traveling to Downtown ever or "Midtown" at night. Such a talented, well trained chef could likely succeed off Highland Colony, imo.
Krusatyr, thousands of people visit the several great eating places in Belhaven every year and nothing happens to them except they leave full and happy. You would be fine. Usually there are Capitol PD cruisers parked in the area and that certainly helps.
Jackson's restaurants will be fine without you. We know you can't afford to tip anyway.
Krusatyr, it must be miserable to live your life in a state of fear. If you won't go down there, how do you know what it's like? All of those places are consistently packed, with most weekend nights being completely booked. None of those places need Highland Colony to succeed. They're doing it right where they are, and for the life of me I can't figure out why people like you don't like it.
Such a sad middle school response.
Krusatyr, I had a great time putting myself and my wife in danger eating at the Mayflower last weekend. It was great! Don't listen to the Olds, the food is still top notch. They're just crusty they can't brown bag anymore because the Mayflower wants to have an actually sustainable business model by selling booze.
"Let us eat and drink; for tomorrow we shall die." - Isaiah 23:13. All the existential problems Jackson has, but we've got GREAT RESTAURANTS!
Sorry Krusatyr is scared of his own shadow. Maybe he can stay at home with his .50 cal he brings out at sundown while manning it in his bunker.
I'm not fearful of adversaries (nor critics), stay physically fit enough to fight my way out of conflict, have whipped bullies taller and heavier, been jumped and beaten by thugs 2 on 1 in the past. In Jackson and Ridgeland, I have been threatened by gangs hanging out in parking lots twice: no meal is worth the risk of carjacking or a slug of lead. Jxn has the distinction of Murder (per capita) Capital of America for a reason. I am determined to keep my events of violence behind me and never again be a willing victim.
Even a landscaper who was butchering a line of Cepe Myrtle trees in my neighborhood with a chainsaw, cutting them all straight across (aka Crepe Murder)tried to tackle me for criticizing him, but just bounced off. BTW, all the trees died.The Jackson area is aggressively, nonsensically violent and often stupid.
KF
I do carry a mean, oft sharpened blade but do not own any gun except for a 1930's Greek 9mm rifle my Dad confiscated from a European refugee, brought back from WWII. I had it restored and sighted-in 20 + years ago and have never shot it. On a dove hunt in MS 30 years ago, I had to dodge a man's shotgun continuously, stepping up level and falling back, for several hundred yards walking up to a grain field. He finally put it over his shoulder and shot it backwards just past my ear. That's MS, I believe he was being paid to make my murder look like an accident. Never hunted since. I have out of state family visiting at Christmas, I have instructed them to avoid Jackson entirely, to get a room up off 463.
9:46am
I guess I am among the "olds". I had lunch in the Mayflower with a local business owner 30 years ago +/- whose mother was a waitress there. The food tasted like leftovers. I was polite, I ate it, I tipped, I never went back.
Why don't you tell them how tough you are, Krusatyr? Then they'll leave you alone so you can enjoy your meal.
I had lunch today at the Mayflower and the food was the exact same as always. It's an old people problem just like most things.
Jackson has some great restaurants and I have never had an issue going to any of them -- even after dark. However, to support this culinary entrepreneurship, the City needs to provide the basics: public safety, functioning infrastructure, sanitation, and vagrancy control. Put things like the zoo, convention center, planetarium, JXN Water takeover, and any other "nice to have" ventures until the basics are under control consistently.
3:07pm:
Tough enough to survive. Also respectful of others who deserve it.
4:44pm:
The City cannot step up until after it's too late, providing a body bag, a coroner, and "Our thoughts and prayers". Dokka Chief is removing crime solving Flock cameras, won't start surprise road blocks in appropriate locations and searches with K9s. Too racist? Insensitive? It worked spectacularly in Memphis to reduce violent crimes.
Krusatyr, you seem smart enough to know that 95% or more of the murders in Jackson are between domestic parties. You will NOT be shot in Jackson if you go enjoy some of the great restaurants. Life is too short to live in constant fear based on what you saw happen on WLBT.
... 95% or more of the murders in Jackson are between domestic parties.
Oft repeated, never supported parroting.
4:17 I mean, it’s just the truth. What evidence do you have to the contrary?
I’ve been eating at Steve’s Downtown deli a long time, through 2 different owners. Never a bad experience and always the best quiche, sandwiches, blue plates. It seems to be looked over by people because it’s only open for lunch. Five stars for Steve’s and Pig n Pint. Haven’t been to Mayflower since new owners took over.
Also glad for Sacred Ground and Derek for getting the recognition they deserve. Well deserved!
5:47 - I would point out the local Memphis politicians fought the feds coming in tooth and nail. It's going to take the feds to get anything done in Jackson. They'll just have to ignore Kenny throwing rocks and bottles at them.
Squawk, squawk.
This discussion reminds me of the steak sauce vs no steak sauce debates. The steak purists cannot stand that someone else uses steak sauce, and so they dive head first into a senseless argument. The answer is simple. Eat your steak the way you like it, and go or don't go to a certain location to eat. And stop being bothered by the other guy just because he makes a different choice.
I remeber those bumper stickers about 25 years ago that those old white ladys had on their cars that said “Pray for Jackson” and look wtf happened! We didn’t need those prayers and still don’t
In Hattiesburg. Wish we had Jackson's restaurants
5:47, Do something positive for a small business owner for a change. They are struggling right now especially restaurants. Put a smile on somebody’s face tomorrow, give somebody a compliment. Go down to the Ag Museum cafe for lunch this week. It doesn’t have to be a white tablecloth place. Just get out of your routine sometimes. Being negative is killing you! Live your life man!
I don’t live in Jackson either but I don’t thrive on negativity. I support the State fair and believe in supporting the little guy especially a restaurant with a small staff. No police chief will keep me away from the state fair and seeing the smiles on my 5 and 10 year old grandchildren’s faces.
Elvie's small portions large price, average taste. Mayflower dropped their best dishes and it not better than average.
@WISEOWL what would you say were Mayflower's "best dishes" that they dropped? I've always gone for the onion rings and redfish, both delicious as ever. I don't understand why people think it tastes different, Hunter kept basically all the staff after the acquisition.
Krusatyr doesn't even seem to know the restaurant is in Fondren, not downtown. Not sure if he thinks he's Germanic, Slavic or Nordic half man and half goat or just a fan of fantasy or is still playing Dungeons and Dragons because he has no friends.
As for the restaurant critics, do try to remember that not everyone likes the same foods. I like to try new restaurants when they open. My friends and family like Elvie's and enjoy getting the homemade ice cream next door to take home as well.
I also buy groceries and cook at home so I know I couldn't make some of their meals as cheaply because I cook for fewer people and can't take advantage of " economies of scale".
Not enough BBQ sauce for you, Wiseowl? Keep your child's pallet in Rankin County.
Wish they would bring back the crab bisque at the Mayflower. Loved that stuff and only place you could get it.
Josette, a French restaurant, is fixin’ to open in The Fondren too! Next to Tommy’s Butcher shop which is also fixin’ to open. Jackson has so much good food!
I have said it for years. For its size and demographics, Jackson has one hell of a culinary scene. What we do lack in, is a population that spends the money on said exceptional food. There are a running ton in the metro who just don't eat out, or if they do, they don't go to locally owned eateries.
Jackson does have some really good restaurants for which I'm grateful. I'm not scared to go to them at night, but I don't like driving at night (cataract surgery within the coming year should take care of that) so husband and I are early bird diners.
"Pour yourself a glass of comeback dressing and give it a listen." That's good advice for whatever ails you, KF.
Certain restauranteurs around here need to chill. There’s some that try to plug the same stuff on every article related to anything food. This guy’s place mentioned above is great.
Been here since the 1980s….the mayflower has its fans and hunter too. It’s bland to me but I’m excited people revel in it. I miss the elite and the enchiladas and bread. Not sure who these guys are who think they will be hurt by being downtown….live and work downtown and the only person who hurts me is the old yankee ticket man who won’t leave my car alone.
BTW, I live in NorthEast Jxn in a comfortable and attractive home. Though many years ago I worked Downtown, I avoid it now. People on this site disparage those who don't go out and support restaurants. At my advanced age, even though I exercise rigorously, daily, I only need 1-1/2 meals per day and prefer to cook at home to ensure the nutritional and 'medical' requirements of my food are met. Based on my last cardio tests, it's working.
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