Wednesday, July 30, 2025

Robert St. John: Who Was Across From Me

I’ve eaten thousands of meals in restaurants. The ones that have stuck weren’t about the food. What I remember is the person sitting across from me.

In my business, service times, table numbers, and orders all start to blur. But the moments that rise above it—the ones that last—are about people. A shared meal has always meant more than what’s on the plate. It’s the company, the conversation, the connection.

These days, I eat lunch with my wife almost every day. That’s become our rhythm. I know how rare that is—especially in a world that seems to be moving faster than it should. We always plan it. Sometime mid-morning, one of us will ask, “Where do you want to have lunch?” And these days, our daughter—who lives and works in town—can sometimes free herself up and join us. Most days, we end up somewhere around 1 p.m., ordering something familiar and settling in. It’s not extravagant. It’s steady. A small act that means a lot.

It wasn’t always this way.

When we dated and when we were newlyweds, both of us worked full-time. I spent the early years of my restaurant career in the kitchen during lunch service, and the next decade or so working the floor. She was holding down a demanding job of her own and rarely even stopped for lunch. We made it work when we could. A quick bite. Fifteen minutes squeezed between obligations. We didn’t have much time, but we valued what we had.



That shifted when our daughter was born. Once she was old enough to sit upright in a highchair, we’d pick her up from preschool and take her to lunch. Never fast food. Always a sit-down meal in a real restaurant. She was perfect—quiet, observant, content to be right in the middle of the lunch crowd. She grew up in dining rooms, learning how to act civilized, how to listen politely, and how to stare at strangers chewing without making a face—which is, frankly, more than I can manage most days.

Our son was a different story. Loud, excited, always moving—like a chihuahua on espresso. Never misbehaved, just thrilled to be in the mix. That was just who he was, even back then. He grew up in restaurants too, and today he’s working in one, living in Chicago and following his own path in the business.

Back when both kids were small, breakfast on weekends was its own tradition. First with my daughter, until she discovered sleeping in. Then it became my son and me. These days, when I’m in Chicago, we’ll still meet for breakfast before he heads to work. Those early hours matter. They’re quiet and honest.

Some of the most meaningful time I’ve spent as an adult came in the form of a fast-food biscuit breakfast with my mother. For over a decade, we met three mornings a week—after my time at the gym, and before work. She liked the biscuits at Hardee’s. Said they tasted like her mother’s. They didn’t. But that didn’t stop her. We always sat at the same table by the window she liked. Thirty, forty-five minutes, just catching up. Talking about everything and nothing. Usually debating whether the sausage biscuit was worth feeling terrible the rest of the day—which, of course, it always was.

She’s gone now. But those mornings still feel close. Just the two of us, making space in the middle of life.

I’ve always admired the men in my old neighborhood who came home for lunch. You could set your watch by them. Pulling into the driveway at noon, back to work an hour later. A small, steady tradition. I still know a couple who do it. That kind of consistency says something about how people choose to spend their time. For us, lunch means going out. That’s how it’s always been. My wife and I fell into that habit early and kept it. Whether it’s a neighborhood spot or something new, we’ve had thousands of meals together. We talk about the kids, about work, about whatever’s going on that day. Sometimes we talk less. We’ve reached the point where silence is comfortable, at least on my end. She’s never met a quiet moment she didn’t want to fix. But most days, just sitting across from her, splitting an entrée, drinking iced tea, watching the room, feels like a reminder of how good this life is.

Most business meetings I take these days happen at The Midtowner, around 7 a.m. at table 19. It’s my preferred time. People are fresh, there’s little distraction, and nobody’s had enough time to make really bad decisions. I like how breakfast sets the tone. Even when we’re talking business, the food makes it feel more grounded.

Some of the best meals I’ve ever had weren’t special occasions. Just memories that stuck. In 2011, our family spent six months traveling through Europe. My son and I had breakfast almost every day—Barcelona markets, Paris cafés, Milan bakeries with croissants as big as your head. But the one I remember best happened in Athens, on the rooftop of the Royal Olympic Hotel. The Temple of Zeus in front of us. The Parthenon beyond. A perfect morning. Just a quiet table, soft boiled eggs, croissants, and the city waking up around us.

I’ve forgotten a lot of what I’ve eaten over the years. But I remember the meals that meant something.

Life doesn’t slow down on its own. We have to make the space. The table does that. Whether it was a biscuit with my mother, breakfast with my son, lunch with my wife, or sneaking my daughter out of elementary school to share nachos, those meals have been a steady thread. They connected our days. They brought us together. They reminded us—without ever needing to say it out loud—that we were right where we were supposed to be.

Who was across from me mattered then. Still does.

Onward.



Apple French Toast

Serves 4 to 6

French toast has been a favorite since childhood—probably one of the first things I could make on my own. Pancakes were my grandmother Muz’s domain, but French toast was all mine. King’s Hawaiian Bread is always a solid choice, but if you can find a bakery that makes fresh brioche or sweet sourdough, grab it. Never been shy about my love for apples, especially Honey Crisp and Fuji. Apple pie’s always been my go-to, but this recipe takes the best part of apple pie and turns it into breakfast.

Apple Topping

3 each Honey Crisp or Fuji apples, core removed and cut into 1/4-inch slices

4 tablespoons unsalted butter

1/2 cup apple brandy

1 cup light brown sugar, packed

1/4 cup honey

2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

For the French Toast

1 cup whole milk

6 large eggs

1/4 cup granulated sugar

2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg

1 1/2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract

Pinch salt

6 to 8 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

12 slices King’s Hawaiian Bread

Preheat oven to 175° F

For the topping, in a 12-14-inch skillet, melt four tablespoons butter over medium-high heat. Stir in the apples and sauté for four to five minutes, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking. Add the apple brandy (stand back a bit as the brandy will create flames).

Simmer until the flames burn off then stir in the brown sugar and honey. Continue cooking for eight to ten minutes, until a thick syrup forms. Stir in the cinnamon, nutmeg, and salt. Hold the topping warm in the oven while you prepare the French toast.

In a medium-sized mixing bowl, whisk together the milk, eggs, sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg, vanilla extract, and salt. Place a large non-stick skillet over medium heat (If using an electric griddle, set the temperature to 350° F). Brush the surface with the melted butter.

Cook in batches that will fit evenly in the skillet. Dip the bread in the batter for 15 seconds and place it in the hot skillet. Cook for three to five minutes, or until the surface is golden brown. Flip the bread over and continue cooking for four to five more minutes. Hold the French toast on a cooling rack, over a baking sheet in the warm oven while you finish cooking the remainder of the French toast.

To serve, cut the French toast in half on a diagonal. Place four to six slices on each serving dish and spoon the apple topping over the top.


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Trollfest '09

Trollfest '07 was such a success that Jackson Jambalaya will once again host Trollfest '09. Catch this great event which will leave NE Jackson & Fondren in flames. Othor Cain and his band, The Black Power Structure headline the night while Sonjay Poontang returns for an encore performance. Former Frank Melton bodyguard Marcus Wright makes his premier appearance at Trollfest singing "I'm a Sweet Transvestite" from "The Rocky Horror Picture Show." Kamikaze will sing his new hit, “How I sold out to da Man.” Robbie Bell again performs: “Mamas, don't let your babies grow up to be Bells” and “Any friend of Ed Peters is a friend of mine”. After the show, Ms. Bell will autograph copies of her mug shot photos. In a salute to “Dancing with the Stars”, Ms. Bell and Hinds County District Attorney Robert Smith will dance the Wango Tango.

Wrestling returns, except this time it will be a Battle Royal with Othor Cain, Ben Allen, Kim Wade, Haley Fisackerly, Alan Lange, and “Big Cat” Donna Ladd all in the ring at the same time. The Battle Royal will be in a steel cage, no time limit, no referee, and the losers must leave town. Marshand Crisler will be the honorary referee (as it gives him a title without actually having to do anything).


Meet KIM Waaaaaade at the Entergy Tent. For five pesos, Kim will sell you a chance to win a deed to a crack house on Ridgeway Street stuffed in the Howard Industries pinata. Don't worry if the pinata is beaten to shreds, as Mr. Wade has Jose, Emmanuel, and Carlos, all illegal immigrants, available as replacements for the it. Upon leaving the Entergy tent, fig leaves will be available in case Entergy literally takes everything you have as part of its Trollfest ticket price adjustment charge.

Donna Ladd of The Jackson Free Press will give several classes on learning how to write. Smearing, writing without factchecking, and reporting only one side of a story will be covered. A donation to pay their taxes will be accepted and she will be signing copies of their former federal tax liens. Ms. Ladd will give a dramatic reading of her two award-winning essays (They received The Jackson Free Press "Best Of" awards.) "Why everything is always about me" and "Why I cover murders better than anyone else in Jackson".

In the spirit of helping those who are less fortunate, Trollfest '09 adopts a cause for which a portion of the proceeds and donations will be donated: Keeping Frank Melton in his home. The “Keep Frank Melton From Being Homeless” booth will sell chances for five dollars to pin the tail on the jackass. John Reeves has graciously volunteered to be the jackass for this honorable excursion into saving Frank's ass. What's an ass between two friends after all? If Mr. Reeves is unable to um, perform, Speaker Billy McCoy has also volunteered as when the word “jackass” was mentioned he immediately ran as fast as he could to sign up.


In order to help clean up the legal profession, Adam Kilgore of the Mississippi Bar will be giving away free, round-trip plane tickets to the North Pole where they keep their bar complaint forms (which are NOT available online). If you don't want to go to the North Pole, you can enjoy Brant Brantley's (of the Mississippi Commission on Judicial Performance) free guided tours of the quicksand field over by High Street where all complaints against judges disappear. If for some reason you are unable to control yourself, never fear; Judge Houston Patton will operate his jail where no lawyers are needed or allowed as you just sit there for minutes... hours.... months...years until he decides he is tired of you sitting in his jail. Do not think Judge Patton is a bad judge however as he plans to serve free Mad Dog 20/20 to all inmates.

Trollfest '09 is a pet-friendly event as well. Feel free to bring your dog with you and do not worry if your pet gets hungry, as employees of the Jackson Zoo will be on hand to provide some of their animals as food when it gets to be feeding time for your little loved one.

Relax at the Fox News Tent. Since there are only three blonde reporters in Jackson (being blonde is a requirement for working at Fox News), Megan and Kathryn from WAPT and Wendy from WLBT will be on loan to Fox. To gain admittance to the VIP section, bring either your Republican Party ID card or a Rebel Flag. Bringing both and a torn-up Obama yard sign will entitle you to free drinks served by Megan, Wendy, and Kathryn. Get your tickets now. Since this is an event for trolls, no ID is required. Just bring the hate. Bring the family, Trollfest '09 is for EVERYONE!!!

This is definitely a Beaver production.


Note: Security provided by INS.

Trollfest '07

Jackson Jambalaya is the home of Trollfest '07. Catch this great event which promises to leave NE Jackson & Fondren in flames. Sonjay Poontang and his band headline the night with a special steel cage, no time limit "loser must leave town" bout between Alan Lange and "Big Cat"Donna Ladd following afterwards. Kamikaze will perform his new song F*** Bush, he's still a _____. Did I mention there was no referee? Dr. Heddy Matthias and Lori Gregory will face off in the undercard dueling with dangling participles and other um, devices. Robbie Bell will perform Her two latest songs: My Best Friends are in the Media and Mama's, Don't Let Your Babies Grow up to be George Bell. Sid Salter of The Clarion-Ledger will host "Pin the Tail on the Trial Lawyer", sponsored by State Farm.

There will be a hugging booth where in exchange for your young son, Frank Melton will give you a loooong hug. Trollfest will have a dunking booth where Muhammed the terrorist will curse you to Allah as you try to hit a target that will drop him into a vat of pig grease. However, in the true spirit of Separate But Equal, Don Imus and someone from NE Jackson will also sit in the dunking booth for an equal amount of time. Tom Head will give a reading for two hours on why he can't figure out who the hell he is. Cliff Cargill will give lessons with his .80 caliber desert eagle, using Frank Melton photos as targets. Tackleberry will be on hand for an autograph session. KIM Waaaaaade will be passing out free titles and deeds to crackhouses formerly owned by The Wood Street Players.

If you get tired come relax at the Fox News Tent. To gain admittance to the VIP section, bring either your Republican Party ID card or a Rebel Flag. Bringing both will entitle you to free drinks.Get your tickets now. Since this is an event for trolls, no ID is required, just bring the hate. Bring the family, Trollfest '07 is for EVERYONE!!!

This is definitely a Beaver production.

Note: Security provided by INS
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