Wednesday, July 16, 2025

Robert St. John: What Pancakes Know

 Some things in life are constant. For some people it’s a favorite hymn or a favorite breed in a family dog. For me, it’s music, football, Mississippi—and pancakes.

In sixty-three years, I’ve probably eaten more pancakes than any other food. They’ve been a part of my life from the beginning. My first real food memory is sitting at a kitchen table eating pancakes with too much butter and even more syrup. That memory’s been on repeat, in one form or another, for over six decades.

When you stop and think about it, pancakes are always served with love. Outside of a restaurant, has anyone ever handed you a plate of pancakes that wasn’t made by someone who loves you?

That was true with my grandmother, who we called Muz. She lived in New York with my grandfather during the first ten years of my life. Anytime we visited her up north—or she visited us down here—she made pancakes. Always from scratch. Never from a box. No mixes, no shortcuts, no plastic bottles shaped like a woman named Jemima. And always with care.

Her side of the family came from Nashville, and her pancake recipe came with them. It was different. At friends’ houses, I’d eat Bisquick pancakes—fine enough, I guess, but mostly a vehicle for syrup. Muz’s pancakes had flavor. Real flavor. Not “hints of” or “notes of”—just flat-out delicious. They were slightly delicate, but not crepes. 

Muz wasn’t French. 

She was Presbyterian.

I spent more time growing up with my other grandmother, my dad’s mom, since she lived right here in Hattiesburg. I’d sleep over, and every morning, she’d ask what I wanted for breakfast. My answer was always the same: pancakes.

 


 

I don’t remember this next part, but the story’s been told enough times to qualify as family scripture. Evidently, one morning I told her that her pancakes weren’t as good as Muz’s. The unfiltered honesty of a five-year-old. Bless her. Instead of being hurt, she picked up the phone, called my other grandmother in New York, and got her recipe. That was the kind of woman she was. And from that point forward, I was spoiled with Muz’s pancakes whether I was up north, down south, or at home with my mother.

We never really took family vacations. We didn’t have the money for weeks at the beach. But we had a single-wide trailer down on the Pascagoula River. A fish camp with screen doors that slammed too loud and floors that creaked. Muz would mix the dry ingredients at home and bring them along. Most mornings started with her pancakes. You’d wake to the sound of bacon grease popping, the clatter of plates, and the smell of something familiar.

Fast forward fifty years, and I now own a restaurant that serves thousands of pancakes a week. At The Midtowner, we serve them with warm maple syrup, but if you’re in the know—and you have the confidence to whisper like you're asking for the good bourbon at a Baptist wedding—we keep Steen’s Cane Syrup behind the counter.

Steen’s Cane Syrup comes from Abbeville, Louisiana. It’s been made the same way for over 100 years. They press 100% sugarcane juice and boil it down until it thickens—nothing else added, nothing taken away. What you get is a rich, deep, complex syrup that tastes of the fields it came from. It’s bold. It’s pure. It’s Southern. And unlike maple syrup, I don’t pour it over pancakes. I keep it in a little ramekin on the side and dip each bite in, just enough to coat it.

There’s also a pancake tip I’ve passed along over the years—one that surprises people until they try it. Add a pinch of salt. Just a sprinkle over the top before the syrup goes on. It doesn’t make the pancake salty. It enhances everything else. Trust me. It’ll change your pancake game.

Lately at The Midtowner, we’ve been running a special: the Pancake Sampler. One regular buttermilk pancake. One sweet potato pancake. One blueberry pancake. One chocolate chip pancake. They come with four syrups: maple, cinnamon cream, Steen’s cane, and buttermilk syrup.

People are skeptical about the salt tip. But they’re even more skeptical about buttermilk syrup. I get it. It doesn’t sound like something that belongs on pancakes.

That changed when I visited one of Chef Ford Fry’s restaurants in Atlanta. Fry is one of my favorite chefs in the South. Originally from Houston, he’s built an empire of great restaurants across Atlanta and beyond. Several of his Tex-Mex spots serve brunch, and one day I ordered a single pancake for the table to share—just a side item with a bunch of egg dishes. It came with buttermilk syrup.

It was a revelation.

I ordered a second.

Light, sweet, slightly tangy, and perfectly balanced. The pancake was good. The syrup was magic. I never would’ve ordered it on my own, but I was so glad I tried it.

So when we built the Pancake Sampler at The Midtowner, I knew we needed buttermilk syrup to round out the lineup.

What happened next wasn’t planned, but it changed everything.

One morning, while testing the flight of pancakes and syrups before the rollout, I spilled a little cane syrup into the buttermilk syrup. That accident might go down as one of the best things that’s ever happened in my kitchen, and one of the best mistakes I’ve ever made.

I tasted it. Then I tasted it again. Then I passed it around the kitchen.

To my knowledge, that blend—equal parts cane syrup and buttermilk syrup—is brand new to the pancake world. And I say that as a six-decade veteran of pancake eating.

It was smooth, sweet, deep, and bright all at once. The cane syrup gave it weight. The buttermilk gave it lift. You could put it on a piece of cardboard and still come away smiling.

We don’t advertise it. You’ve got to know to ask. And if you’re really playing the long game—wanting to reach elite level—ask for a ramekin of drawn butter on the side and throw a pinch of salt on the pancake.

It’s not just breakfast. It’s a love letter in syrup.

So here we are. A boy who once told his grandmother her pancakes didn’t measure up. A man who eats them most every day. A restaurant full of syrup secrets and one mistake that turned out better than the plan.

Some people have legacies made from land and money. Mine, it seems, is griddled and served with love.

Some things change. Pancakes don’t have to.

Onward.

 

 

 Muz's Pancakes 

This is the most downloaded recipe— by far—on robertstjohn.com. I wish my grandmother was alive to know how many thousands of people are cooking her recipe for their family’s breakfasts. 

 

Yield: 10-14 pancakes

 

2 cups                           All Purpose Flour

1 TBSP + 1 tsp             Baking Powder

2 tsp                              Baking Soda

½ tsp                             Kosher Salt

2 TBSP                          Sugar

 

2                                    Large Eggs

2 cups                           Buttermilk

½ cup                            Unsalted Butter, melted, divided 

 

Melted butter or non-stick spray for cooking pancakes

 

Preheat oven to 200 degrees for holding pancakes

 

Combine flour, baking powder. Baking soda, salt and sugar in a medium-sized mixing bowl. Mix well. In a separate bowl, whisk together the eggs, buttermilk and ¼ cup of the melted butter. Next, whisk buttermilk mixture into flour mixture. Do not overmix, a few lumps are fine. 

 

Let pancake mixture set for 10-15 minutes before cooking pancakes.

 

To cook the pancakes, heat a non-stick griddle to 325-350 degrees (models vary, so test your griddle with a small bit of batter to assure you have the heat adjusted correctly). When ready several drops of water should dance on the griddle’s surface. Brush griddle with melted butter or spray with non-stick spray. 

 

Ladle 1/3 cup pancake batter onto the griddle. Cook until bubbles cover the raw, upside of the pancakes and the edges are cooked, approximately 1 to 2 minutes. Flip pancakes. Once pancakes are turned, use a pastry brush to spread the additional 1 /4 cup of the remaining melted butter on top of the pancakes while the bottom side is cooking. This will keep you from having to spread cold butter on them later, which tears them. The pancakes will already be buttered once they reach the table. 

 

If holding pancakes in oven before serving, place them on a wire rack in preheated oven. Top with real maple syrup.

 


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Trollfest '09

Trollfest '07 was such a success that Jackson Jambalaya will once again host Trollfest '09. Catch this great event which will leave NE Jackson & Fondren in flames. Othor Cain and his band, The Black Power Structure headline the night while Sonjay Poontang returns for an encore performance. Former Frank Melton bodyguard Marcus Wright makes his premier appearance at Trollfest singing "I'm a Sweet Transvestite" from "The Rocky Horror Picture Show." Kamikaze will sing his new hit, “How I sold out to da Man.” Robbie Bell again performs: “Mamas, don't let your babies grow up to be Bells” and “Any friend of Ed Peters is a friend of mine”. After the show, Ms. Bell will autograph copies of her mug shot photos. In a salute to “Dancing with the Stars”, Ms. Bell and Hinds County District Attorney Robert Smith will dance the Wango Tango.

Wrestling returns, except this time it will be a Battle Royal with Othor Cain, Ben Allen, Kim Wade, Haley Fisackerly, Alan Lange, and “Big Cat” Donna Ladd all in the ring at the same time. The Battle Royal will be in a steel cage, no time limit, no referee, and the losers must leave town. Marshand Crisler will be the honorary referee (as it gives him a title without actually having to do anything).


Meet KIM Waaaaaade at the Entergy Tent. For five pesos, Kim will sell you a chance to win a deed to a crack house on Ridgeway Street stuffed in the Howard Industries pinata. Don't worry if the pinata is beaten to shreds, as Mr. Wade has Jose, Emmanuel, and Carlos, all illegal immigrants, available as replacements for the it. Upon leaving the Entergy tent, fig leaves will be available in case Entergy literally takes everything you have as part of its Trollfest ticket price adjustment charge.

Donna Ladd of The Jackson Free Press will give several classes on learning how to write. Smearing, writing without factchecking, and reporting only one side of a story will be covered. A donation to pay their taxes will be accepted and she will be signing copies of their former federal tax liens. Ms. Ladd will give a dramatic reading of her two award-winning essays (They received The Jackson Free Press "Best Of" awards.) "Why everything is always about me" and "Why I cover murders better than anyone else in Jackson".

In the spirit of helping those who are less fortunate, Trollfest '09 adopts a cause for which a portion of the proceeds and donations will be donated: Keeping Frank Melton in his home. The “Keep Frank Melton From Being Homeless” booth will sell chances for five dollars to pin the tail on the jackass. John Reeves has graciously volunteered to be the jackass for this honorable excursion into saving Frank's ass. What's an ass between two friends after all? If Mr. Reeves is unable to um, perform, Speaker Billy McCoy has also volunteered as when the word “jackass” was mentioned he immediately ran as fast as he could to sign up.


In order to help clean up the legal profession, Adam Kilgore of the Mississippi Bar will be giving away free, round-trip plane tickets to the North Pole where they keep their bar complaint forms (which are NOT available online). If you don't want to go to the North Pole, you can enjoy Brant Brantley's (of the Mississippi Commission on Judicial Performance) free guided tours of the quicksand field over by High Street where all complaints against judges disappear. If for some reason you are unable to control yourself, never fear; Judge Houston Patton will operate his jail where no lawyers are needed or allowed as you just sit there for minutes... hours.... months...years until he decides he is tired of you sitting in his jail. Do not think Judge Patton is a bad judge however as he plans to serve free Mad Dog 20/20 to all inmates.

Trollfest '09 is a pet-friendly event as well. Feel free to bring your dog with you and do not worry if your pet gets hungry, as employees of the Jackson Zoo will be on hand to provide some of their animals as food when it gets to be feeding time for your little loved one.

Relax at the Fox News Tent. Since there are only three blonde reporters in Jackson (being blonde is a requirement for working at Fox News), Megan and Kathryn from WAPT and Wendy from WLBT will be on loan to Fox. To gain admittance to the VIP section, bring either your Republican Party ID card or a Rebel Flag. Bringing both and a torn-up Obama yard sign will entitle you to free drinks served by Megan, Wendy, and Kathryn. Get your tickets now. Since this is an event for trolls, no ID is required. Just bring the hate. Bring the family, Trollfest '09 is for EVERYONE!!!

This is definitely a Beaver production.


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Trollfest '07

Jackson Jambalaya is the home of Trollfest '07. Catch this great event which promises to leave NE Jackson & Fondren in flames. Sonjay Poontang and his band headline the night with a special steel cage, no time limit "loser must leave town" bout between Alan Lange and "Big Cat"Donna Ladd following afterwards. Kamikaze will perform his new song F*** Bush, he's still a _____. Did I mention there was no referee? Dr. Heddy Matthias and Lori Gregory will face off in the undercard dueling with dangling participles and other um, devices. Robbie Bell will perform Her two latest songs: My Best Friends are in the Media and Mama's, Don't Let Your Babies Grow up to be George Bell. Sid Salter of The Clarion-Ledger will host "Pin the Tail on the Trial Lawyer", sponsored by State Farm.

There will be a hugging booth where in exchange for your young son, Frank Melton will give you a loooong hug. Trollfest will have a dunking booth where Muhammed the terrorist will curse you to Allah as you try to hit a target that will drop him into a vat of pig grease. However, in the true spirit of Separate But Equal, Don Imus and someone from NE Jackson will also sit in the dunking booth for an equal amount of time. Tom Head will give a reading for two hours on why he can't figure out who the hell he is. Cliff Cargill will give lessons with his .80 caliber desert eagle, using Frank Melton photos as targets. Tackleberry will be on hand for an autograph session. KIM Waaaaaade will be passing out free titles and deeds to crackhouses formerly owned by The Wood Street Players.

If you get tired come relax at the Fox News Tent. To gain admittance to the VIP section, bring either your Republican Party ID card or a Rebel Flag. Bringing both will entitle you to free drinks.Get your tickets now. Since this is an event for trolls, no ID is required, just bring the hate. Bring the family, Trollfest '07 is for EVERYONE!!!

This is definitely a Beaver production.

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