Wednesday, July 6, 2022

Robert St. John: Giving Credit Where Credit is Due

 Last Friday I wrapped up a photo shoot for my new cookbook, “Mississippi Mornings.” It's a book I've wanted to write for almost a decade, and one I've been seriously contemplating for five or six years. Recipe testing finally began this past February and we got about halfway through the roster before I had to head to Europe for work. A week after my return in May we began recipe testing again. 

Recipe testing for cookbooks is much different than creating recipes for restaurants. In the restaurants I’m able to speak a form of shorthand to the chefs, and most of the support ingredients are already in the building, we’re just discovering new ways to use them. Cookbook recipe testing is more precise, and the result will be prepared in home kitchens. Most of the ingredients aren’t in the commercial kitchens where we do a lot of the recipe testing. There is still shorthand spoken because we have worked together for so long, but the final outcome is for six to eight portions in someone’s home instead of a single dish in a restaurant dining room.

 

The photoshoot for the cookbook began three weeks ago. We shot for a full week and then took a break for several days before shooting this past week, wrapping up on Friday. The photo shoot for the breakfast cookbook was one of the most fun experiences I've had working on a book. A true team effort. There were at least five or six of us working together at any one time.




 

Several years ago, I served as food stylist alongside a photographer from New York down on a grilling book I released. It was a great experience but nothing like the one we just completed. I have always enjoyed collaboration and the synergy that comes from working with one or more individuals on a project. This was the epitome of a team effort.

 

Chef Linda Roderick, a longtime collaborator headed up the food testing for the book. She and I have worked together— on and off— for 20 years. She was the executive chef at the Purple Parrot for a decade or more and worked with me on the recipe testing of the first few cookbooks I wrote. Scott Strickland, we call him Scotty, is also a veteran of the Purple Parrot for more than 20 years. Anyone who ate lunch in that restaurant from the year 2000 until we shuttered it would have eaten food prepared by Scotty. He had Linda teamed up and did an excellent job carrying out my wants and wishes while executing the breakfast recipes.

 

Martha Foose, a friend of almost 20 years, and a talented pastry chef and baker in her own right, served as food stylist for the shoot. She and I are in the process of opening a bakery in Hattiesburg and I signed the lease for that bakery on the final day of the cookbook shoot. Martha has written four cookbooks and ghostwritten a dozen more. She has a great eye and perfect touch when it comes to styling. She has good taste, too. I look forward to working with her as we bring this bakery to life over the next few months. 

 

Kate Dearman, a Nashville photographer, who grew up in Hattiesburg, handled all the photographic work. She, too, has an excellent eye and had no problem tweaking our ideas as we progressed along during the shoot. The proofs I've seen so far get me excited about the finished product. 

 

Anthony Thaxton— coming straight off our win for a Regional Emmy for the Walter Anderson documentary we co-produced— is designing the book. He designed the companion book to the documentary this past fall and did an excellent job. That book is now in its second printing. He's never designed a cookbook before, but I have yet to discover a task Thaxton isn't up to when asked.

 

My overworked personal assistant, Simeon Williford, was there every step of the way and helped with logistics, scheduling, planning, and just running general errands. Everyone needs a Simeon in their life. Especially someone who is has ADHD and is as scatterbrained and busy as your columnist. My wife and our friend Justin were the prop masters and the main reason our dining room, kitchen, and den have looked like a flea market for the past three weeks.

 

I have written often that breakfast is my favorite meal of the day. Whether this becomes one of my favorite cookbooks, or not, remains to be seen. From my view here in the development stage it certainly is a strong contender.

 

Though I decided last week to postpone the book’s release. “Mississippi Mornings” was originally scheduled to be released this November and the accompanying promotional, book-signing tour would follow leading up to Christmas. With all the supply chain issues I’ve experienced and horror stories I've heard from fellow authors— in addition to the aforementioned Walter Anderson book being three weeks late last November— I have chosen to push the book’s release date to next fall. It was the right decision. The copy editor in New York was chomping at the bit to get the edit done and I wanted to make sure that all the recipes and photographs were spot on. The process took longer than normal. This will be a much better book when released in 2023 instead of this November.

 

Moving the release date to a Fall 2023 schedule will enable me to add a few extra recipes and to cover breakfasts during a few different seasons of the year. It will also give me a chance to work even more with these wonderful people I have spent so much time with in recent weeks. My key to cookbook success is the same as my key to business success— surround yourself with people who are more talented than you, set the course, guide the ship, and get out of the way when necessary.

 

Onward.




Yield: 4 Omelets

Omelet Filling

2 TBSP                                  Unsalted Butter

½ cup                                    Yellow Onion, small dice

1/3 cup                                 Bell Pepper, small dice

1 tsp                                      Garlic, minced

2 tsp                                      Creole Seasoning

1 tsp                                      Kosher Salt

½ pound                               Crawfish Tails

 1 cup                                     Pepperjack Cheese, shredded

 12                                           Eggs

2 TBSP                                   Water

2 TBSP                                   Half and Half

 4 tsp                                      Unsalted Butter for cooking omelets

 For the omelet filling:

 Melt butter in a medium sized skillet over medium heat. Stir in the onion and bell pepper and sauté for 3-4 minutes. Stir in garlic, Creole seasoning and salt, continue to cook for 2 minutes. Stir in crawfish tails and cook for 3-4 more minutes until crawfish are thoroughly heated. Remove from heat.

 Horseradish Cream:

 1 cup                                    Sour Cream

1 TBSP                                  Mayonnaise

1 TBSP                                  Prepared Horseradish

¼ tsp                                     Salt

¼ tsp                                     Fresh Ground Black Pepper

½ tsp                                     Lemon Juice

1 TBSP                                  Fresh Chives, chopped

 

Stir together all ingredients. Sauce can be made in advance and stored covered in the refrigerator for up to seven days.

Once the sauce and filling have been made, follow the instructions for preparing an omelet. Divide the filling and cheese into 4. Fill the omelets and top with the sauce.

 

5 comments:

Anonymous said...

Going to skip the omelet and try the horseradish cream.
Breakfast isn't my favorite meal of the day, but the omelet would do for supper.

Please include some nice sauces for your new cookbook.

Anonymous said...

If that is a recipe directly from the book, a postponement was definitely the right call. A proofreading might uncover a couple of errors. I wonder if St. John had any famous BFFs who wittily observed - in chef's shorthand of course - at some chic gathering, "You can't make an omelet without breaking a few eggs...into a bowl with 2TB H2O, 2TB H&H, 1C PJC/S..." (I'm just guessing at the shorthand - I don't speak celebrichef).

Anonymous said...

I’ve never put small dice into an omelet - willing to try- kinda like a king cake for gamblers. All in jest- I look forward to the CB as I do your column. Good luck. You would have killed it on a segment of Coffee with Judy. How about one on foraging in Mississippi? With current prices it may come in handy. I could go for an omelette with Strong River watercress and Crystal springs mushrooms.

Anonymous said...

Opening a bakery with Martha? That'll get interesting.

Anonymous said...

Ed’s burgers fondren update ?



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Trollfest '07 was such a success that Jackson Jambalaya will once again host Trollfest '09. Catch this great event which will leave NE Jackson & Fondren in flames. Othor Cain and his band, The Black Power Structure headline the night while Sonjay Poontang returns for an encore performance. Former Frank Melton bodyguard Marcus Wright makes his premier appearance at Trollfest singing "I'm a Sweet Transvestite" from "The Rocky Horror Picture Show." Kamikaze will sing his new hit, “How I sold out to da Man.” Robbie Bell again performs: “Mamas, don't let your babies grow up to be Bells” and “Any friend of Ed Peters is a friend of mine”. After the show, Ms. Bell will autograph copies of her mug shot photos. In a salute to “Dancing with the Stars”, Ms. Bell and Hinds County District Attorney Robert Smith will dance the Wango Tango.

Wrestling returns, except this time it will be a Battle Royal with Othor Cain, Ben Allen, Kim Wade, Haley Fisackerly, Alan Lange, and “Big Cat” Donna Ladd all in the ring at the same time. The Battle Royal will be in a steel cage, no time limit, no referee, and the losers must leave town. Marshand Crisler will be the honorary referee (as it gives him a title without actually having to do anything).


Meet KIM Waaaaaade at the Entergy Tent. For five pesos, Kim will sell you a chance to win a deed to a crack house on Ridgeway Street stuffed in the Howard Industries pinata. Don't worry if the pinata is beaten to shreds, as Mr. Wade has Jose, Emmanuel, and Carlos, all illegal immigrants, available as replacements for the it. Upon leaving the Entergy tent, fig leaves will be available in case Entergy literally takes everything you have as part of its Trollfest ticket price adjustment charge.

Donna Ladd of The Jackson Free Press will give several classes on learning how to write. Smearing, writing without factchecking, and reporting only one side of a story will be covered. A donation to pay their taxes will be accepted and she will be signing copies of their former federal tax liens. Ms. Ladd will give a dramatic reading of her two award-winning essays (They received The Jackson Free Press "Best Of" awards.) "Why everything is always about me" and "Why I cover murders better than anyone else in Jackson".

In the spirit of helping those who are less fortunate, Trollfest '09 adopts a cause for which a portion of the proceeds and donations will be donated: Keeping Frank Melton in his home. The “Keep Frank Melton From Being Homeless” booth will sell chances for five dollars to pin the tail on the jackass. John Reeves has graciously volunteered to be the jackass for this honorable excursion into saving Frank's ass. What's an ass between two friends after all? If Mr. Reeves is unable to um, perform, Speaker Billy McCoy has also volunteered as when the word “jackass” was mentioned he immediately ran as fast as he could to sign up.


In order to help clean up the legal profession, Adam Kilgore of the Mississippi Bar will be giving away free, round-trip plane tickets to the North Pole where they keep their bar complaint forms (which are NOT available online). If you don't want to go to the North Pole, you can enjoy Brant Brantley's (of the Mississippi Commission on Judicial Performance) free guided tours of the quicksand field over by High Street where all complaints against judges disappear. If for some reason you are unable to control yourself, never fear; Judge Houston Patton will operate his jail where no lawyers are needed or allowed as you just sit there for minutes... hours.... months...years until he decides he is tired of you sitting in his jail. Do not think Judge Patton is a bad judge however as he plans to serve free Mad Dog 20/20 to all inmates.

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This is definitely a Beaver production.


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Jackson Jambalaya is the home of Trollfest '07. Catch this great event which promises to leave NE Jackson & Fondren in flames. Sonjay Poontang and his band headline the night with a special steel cage, no time limit "loser must leave town" bout between Alan Lange and "Big Cat"Donna Ladd following afterwards. Kamikaze will perform his new song F*** Bush, he's still a _____. Did I mention there was no referee? Dr. Heddy Matthias and Lori Gregory will face off in the undercard dueling with dangling participles and other um, devices. Robbie Bell will perform Her two latest songs: My Best Friends are in the Media and Mama's, Don't Let Your Babies Grow up to be George Bell. Sid Salter of The Clarion-Ledger will host "Pin the Tail on the Trial Lawyer", sponsored by State Farm.

There will be a hugging booth where in exchange for your young son, Frank Melton will give you a loooong hug. Trollfest will have a dunking booth where Muhammed the terrorist will curse you to Allah as you try to hit a target that will drop him into a vat of pig grease. However, in the true spirit of Separate But Equal, Don Imus and someone from NE Jackson will also sit in the dunking booth for an equal amount of time. Tom Head will give a reading for two hours on why he can't figure out who the hell he is. Cliff Cargill will give lessons with his .80 caliber desert eagle, using Frank Melton photos as targets. Tackleberry will be on hand for an autograph session. KIM Waaaaaade will be passing out free titles and deeds to crackhouses formerly owned by The Wood Street Players.

If you get tired come relax at the Fox News Tent. To gain admittance to the VIP section, bring either your Republican Party ID card or a Rebel Flag. Bringing both will entitle you to free drinks.Get your tickets now. Since this is an event for trolls, no ID is required, just bring the hate. Bring the family, Trollfest '07 is for EVERYONE!!!

This is definitely a Beaver production.

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