Tuesday, September 7, 2021

Dan Berger: Wine & Grilled Food

 End-of-summer patio parties call for tossing steaks onto coals. And choosing the right wines for such fare seems simple enough -- dark reds to go with grilled meats.

    But no one eats just steak at these parties. Patio shindigs start with chips and dips, nuts, crackers, cheese and olives, plus finger food (bruschetta, lahvosh sandwiches), dips (hummus, carrots, guacamole, cherry tomatoes, broccoli), coleslaw and maybe even caviar.

    Sounds like the best match here is iced beer. Domestic brews can be fine, but for such diverse flavors, I prefer more interesting beers such as IPAs, session brews and dozens of craft versions, all of which are more fun than simple American lagers. 

    And there are many imports that can be exciting, not to mention dry ciders and several other new beverages that have come on the scene within the last few years.

    But this is a wine column. And with all of the above foods to accompany barbecued offerings, the best wine to choose, for me at least, has to be pink.

    Rose is not only a festive wine, but they're better than they have ever been. And nothing particularly expensive works well. 

    I do love drier versions, but when you're sitting next to the barbecue pit complete with its smoke invading your nose, you're not going to be picking up subtleties in your beverage. So make it simple and tasty.

    Most grilled foods represent casual dining. As such, I always seek a dry or off-dry rose. There are literally dozens of wines in this category, many from Spain and the south of France, but California also does a wide variety of pink wines.
    One of the most widely available is the 2020 Pedroncelli Dry Rose of Zinfandel from Dry Creek Valley (about $14), which is always a tasty and fruity rose with strawberry notes. Also widely available (about $15) is the dry Bonterra Rose, a blend of six grapes including the aromatic grenache.

    Neither of these two excellent choices is particularly dry. Both have a certain richness in the mouth and are fine served very cold.

    One important bit of advice regarding all roses: select only younger versions. Once you get back to 2018 or even earlier, the flavors have already been compromised by a little too much oxygen.

    It's too soon for the 2021 California pink wines to be released, but those that have arrived from the southern hemisphere, such as from Chile, Argentina, New Zealand and Australia, can be delightful.

    At this point, the best rose wines from California are from 2020, with a few 2019's still satisfactory to consume. 

    If you're looking for a top-quality pink wine with excellent fruit, my favorite grapes are pinot noir and grenache. Occasionally, sangiovese can deliver a superb pink wine as well. One of the best of those is from Barnard Griffin in Washington state (the 2020 is $14). Slightly sweeter than many.

    Good quality pink wines can be served pretty cold without losing much of their character. Those from the south of France (especially Provence) can often be found in the $8 to $11 price range and are perfectly delightful.

    One final beer suggestion. Never consume a fine beer from the container in which it came. People who do that are avoiding the aroma of the beer, which, if it is any good, is one of the reasons you buy it. My suggestion: use a traditional tulip-shaped wine glass for a decent beer to allow it to open up.

    Also, when served too cold, most brews become mute. Cool is better than ice cold.

    Wine of the Week: 2020 Carol Shelton Rendezvous Dry Rose, Mendocino County ($19) -- A little more expensive than most, but it is one of the best in California, made from Carignane grapes. It offers phenomenal ripe cherry and strawberry aromas with a hint of watermelon.

    To find out more about Dan Berger and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate webpage at www.creators.com.

COPYRIGHT 2021 CREATORS.COM

7 comments:

Anonymous said...

KF, While I do enjoy reading Berger's columns, finding a mentioned wine in Mississippi is nigh impossible. So you either special order, import on your own, or reverse the process and search for a review of an available wine. All of which are problematic. How about posting reviews of locally available wines?

Anonymous said...

"...finding a mentioned wine in Mississippi is nigh impossible."

Maybe try Natural Light in a tulip-shaped wine glass? I'm sure all the finer places around MS will be stocking up on such glasses to help the vast number of unrequited oenophiles around the state.

Shazam said...

Another option would be to go to your local wine shop ask if there is a comparable wine to the one reviewed. Mississippi has a fantastic selection of wines available from all over the world. Not all wines have distribution in all states and some wines are made in very limited quantities, so it is not necessarily just because we live in Mississippi that they are hard to get.

Anonymous said...

"Mississippi has a fantastic selection of wines available from all over the world."

Yeah, it's almost as if Henry Ford was the state's sommelier.

"...so it is not necessarily just because we live in Mississippi that they are hard to get."

Yes, it necessarily is exactly that. It is long past time for the state to get out of the wine and liquor business. For every reason there is.

Anonymous said...

All shitty wines recommended by someone pissed off they can’t afford the good stuff. Dan Berger wouldn’t know a good wine from a box of muscadine.

Shazam said...

10:03- Mississippi does indeed have thousands of fine wine choices available through our ABC. The fact is, the ABC does not limit what products are brought into our state. They are a tax machine only and every product is taxed equally. You may disagree with the taxing of alcohol, but the idea that they limit what stores carry is bogus. Secondly, if you think giving wine over to Walmart, Costco and Kroger is going to increase selection-wrong again. Do you really think Kroger is going to have a Bordeaux section? Our system is flawed like most are, but mis-information doesn't help anything.

Anonymous said...

"You may disagree with the taxing of alcohol..."

and

"Mississippi does indeed have thousands of fine wine choices available through our ABC."

This has nothing to do with taxing it. I have no particular issue with a reasonable tax on it. The same is true for many other products. According to liquor store owners around the state, they cannot even get a lot of everyday liquors, much less wines. About 2 weeks ago, I went into a local store to pick a couple of things up. Not a single 1st, 2nd, or 3rd choice were in stock (and all were normally stocked items with a empty slot on the shelves). Same thing at three other stores, two in a different part of the state. All blamed it on the state. We had a couple joining us from Louisiana and they stopped at a well-known store in NO. They were able to get everything on everyone's list plus some extras, all of which were in plentiful supply. Hell, most of SE LA is largely shut down at the moment, but checking two NO area chains show plenty of availability. I have no idea if the MS stores are lying (I doubt it) but it clearly isn't lack of product in the supply chain causing it. But that aside, the state simply shouldn't be in ANY product supply business, liquor or anything else.


"Do you really think Kroger is going to have a Bordeaux section?"

Kroger must think that because it does that very thing, at least in other locations. Ever been to a Kroger in, for example, Texas? HEB, a large Texas chain, has an even larger wine selection. Given the number of chains and individual retailers also present throughout Texas, it doesn't appear to preclude either of them from operating. I suspect that any given Kroger would carry whatever their customers would buy at a level to support that product taking up shelf space, whether it is wine, cheese, or fresh yak testicles. But again, what Kroger might or might not do isn't the issue - the state simply should not be in the product distribution business, whether wine, cheese, or even yak balls.


Recent Comments

Search Jackson Jambalaya

Subscribe to JJ's Youtube channel

Archives

Trollfest '09

Trollfest '07 was such a success that Jackson Jambalaya will once again host Trollfest '09. Catch this great event which will leave NE Jackson & Fondren in flames. Othor Cain and his band, The Black Power Structure headline the night while Sonjay Poontang returns for an encore performance. Former Frank Melton bodyguard Marcus Wright makes his premier appearance at Trollfest singing "I'm a Sweet Transvestite" from "The Rocky Horror Picture Show." Kamikaze will sing his new hit, “How I sold out to da Man.” Robbie Bell again performs: “Mamas, don't let your babies grow up to be Bells” and “Any friend of Ed Peters is a friend of mine”. After the show, Ms. Bell will autograph copies of her mug shot photos. In a salute to “Dancing with the Stars”, Ms. Bell and Hinds County District Attorney Robert Smith will dance the Wango Tango.

Wrestling returns, except this time it will be a Battle Royal with Othor Cain, Ben Allen, Kim Wade, Haley Fisackerly, Alan Lange, and “Big Cat” Donna Ladd all in the ring at the same time. The Battle Royal will be in a steel cage, no time limit, no referee, and the losers must leave town. Marshand Crisler will be the honorary referee (as it gives him a title without actually having to do anything).


Meet KIM Waaaaaade at the Entergy Tent. For five pesos, Kim will sell you a chance to win a deed to a crack house on Ridgeway Street stuffed in the Howard Industries pinata. Don't worry if the pinata is beaten to shreds, as Mr. Wade has Jose, Emmanuel, and Carlos, all illegal immigrants, available as replacements for the it. Upon leaving the Entergy tent, fig leaves will be available in case Entergy literally takes everything you have as part of its Trollfest ticket price adjustment charge.

Donna Ladd of The Jackson Free Press will give several classes on learning how to write. Smearing, writing without factchecking, and reporting only one side of a story will be covered. A donation to pay their taxes will be accepted and she will be signing copies of their former federal tax liens. Ms. Ladd will give a dramatic reading of her two award-winning essays (They received The Jackson Free Press "Best Of" awards.) "Why everything is always about me" and "Why I cover murders better than anyone else in Jackson".

In the spirit of helping those who are less fortunate, Trollfest '09 adopts a cause for which a portion of the proceeds and donations will be donated: Keeping Frank Melton in his home. The “Keep Frank Melton From Being Homeless” booth will sell chances for five dollars to pin the tail on the jackass. John Reeves has graciously volunteered to be the jackass for this honorable excursion into saving Frank's ass. What's an ass between two friends after all? If Mr. Reeves is unable to um, perform, Speaker Billy McCoy has also volunteered as when the word “jackass” was mentioned he immediately ran as fast as he could to sign up.


In order to help clean up the legal profession, Adam Kilgore of the Mississippi Bar will be giving away free, round-trip plane tickets to the North Pole where they keep their bar complaint forms (which are NOT available online). If you don't want to go to the North Pole, you can enjoy Brant Brantley's (of the Mississippi Commission on Judicial Performance) free guided tours of the quicksand field over by High Street where all complaints against judges disappear. If for some reason you are unable to control yourself, never fear; Judge Houston Patton will operate his jail where no lawyers are needed or allowed as you just sit there for minutes... hours.... months...years until he decides he is tired of you sitting in his jail. Do not think Judge Patton is a bad judge however as he plans to serve free Mad Dog 20/20 to all inmates.

Trollfest '09 is a pet-friendly event as well. Feel free to bring your dog with you and do not worry if your pet gets hungry, as employees of the Jackson Zoo will be on hand to provide some of their animals as food when it gets to be feeding time for your little loved one.

Relax at the Fox News Tent. Since there are only three blonde reporters in Jackson (being blonde is a requirement for working at Fox News), Megan and Kathryn from WAPT and Wendy from WLBT will be on loan to Fox. To gain admittance to the VIP section, bring either your Republican Party ID card or a Rebel Flag. Bringing both and a torn-up Obama yard sign will entitle you to free drinks served by Megan, Wendy, and Kathryn. Get your tickets now. Since this is an event for trolls, no ID is required. Just bring the hate. Bring the family, Trollfest '09 is for EVERYONE!!!

This is definitely a Beaver production.


Note: Security provided by INS.

Trollfest '07

Jackson Jambalaya is the home of Trollfest '07. Catch this great event which promises to leave NE Jackson & Fondren in flames. Sonjay Poontang and his band headline the night with a special steel cage, no time limit "loser must leave town" bout between Alan Lange and "Big Cat"Donna Ladd following afterwards. Kamikaze will perform his new song F*** Bush, he's still a _____. Did I mention there was no referee? Dr. Heddy Matthias and Lori Gregory will face off in the undercard dueling with dangling participles and other um, devices. Robbie Bell will perform Her two latest songs: My Best Friends are in the Media and Mama's, Don't Let Your Babies Grow up to be George Bell. Sid Salter of The Clarion-Ledger will host "Pin the Tail on the Trial Lawyer", sponsored by State Farm.

There will be a hugging booth where in exchange for your young son, Frank Melton will give you a loooong hug. Trollfest will have a dunking booth where Muhammed the terrorist will curse you to Allah as you try to hit a target that will drop him into a vat of pig grease. However, in the true spirit of Separate But Equal, Don Imus and someone from NE Jackson will also sit in the dunking booth for an equal amount of time. Tom Head will give a reading for two hours on why he can't figure out who the hell he is. Cliff Cargill will give lessons with his .80 caliber desert eagle, using Frank Melton photos as targets. Tackleberry will be on hand for an autograph session. KIM Waaaaaade will be passing out free titles and deeds to crackhouses formerly owned by The Wood Street Players.

If you get tired come relax at the Fox News Tent. To gain admittance to the VIP section, bring either your Republican Party ID card or a Rebel Flag. Bringing both will entitle you to free drinks.Get your tickets now. Since this is an event for trolls, no ID is required, just bring the hate. Bring the family, Trollfest '07 is for EVERYONE!!!

This is definitely a Beaver production.

Note: Security provided by INS
.