Wednesday, October 11, 2023

Robert St. John: Breakfasts Abroad

 Ten weeks out of each year I work over here leading tours of Americans through European countries. It’s a job I love and a job I take seriously because people trust me with a week to 10 days of their valuable vacation time and vacation savings. It’s work, but if you’ve got to work somewhere, this ain’t a bad place to do it.

Working in Italy, Spain, Holland, Belgium, and the like is a blessing. A bonus is the food. Most of the tours are in Italy and most of the time we are based in Tuscan villas where we spend each night and venture out during the day. Breakfast in the villas is self-serve. I stock the villas with fruits, juices, breakfast bars, yogurt, granola, cereals, and lots of coffee. Seriously, lots of coffee.

On a trip such as the one I am hosting now— trekking 24 Americans from Taormina Sicily to Palermo— we stay in hotels to cover that much ground. Hotel breakfasts in Europe are different. It’s not a bad thing. It’s a good thing. We come here because things are different, and we embrace the differences. If we wanted things to be the same as we have them at home, we’d just travel to Cleveland. But my guests don’t want to be in Cleveland. They want to be in Florence, Marsala, Amalfi, Bologna, Milan, and Palermo.

The first European hotel breakfast I ever ate was on an extended honeymoon in Germany in the early 1990s. Some twenty years later I brought my family over for a long trip and our first breakfast was in Sweden. The kids— 10 and 14 at the time— were amazed to see baked beans and vegetables on the breakfast buffet.

During that six-month journey my son and I mainly ate soft-boiled eggs in a bowl with torn up croissants. The most memorable of those breakfasts was in Athens on the roof of the Royal Olympic Hotel overlooking the Temple of Zeus. Soft-boiled eggs and bread is a dish from my childhood. My brother and I called the dish “Cup eggs.” My kids grew up eating it with torn biscuits and crumbled bacon added to the soft-boiled eggs in the bowl. My son and I were happy we could get soft-boiled eggs at most hotels throughout Europe.

These days when I’m hosting a group such as this one who are on the move every other day we always have breakfast in the hotel. Most Italian hotels offer hard boiled eggs and scrambled eggs in a chafing dish.  Though “scrambled” is a very subjective term to describe how European hotels scramble their eggs. Let it be noted that I like my eggs soft scrambled. Not runny, just soft curds of egg with a slight sheen on them. The Europeans look at the scrambling process differently than we do. Their scrambled eggs are mostly nothing more than runny chicken embryos in a pan. They usually look like liquid eggs with some lumps. I like soft-scrambled but that’s a little too soft. After a few hundred breakfasts over here, I have developed a handy technique that involves scooping out just the cooked curds, draining them, and placing them on top of a piece of toasted wheat bread.

Europeans feel about bacon exactly how they feel about eggs— why cook it? The bacon served at most European hotels is barely warmed and almost raw. When I was a kid, I ate bacon that way. My brother and I called it “floppy bacon.” Sometime during my thirties, I began to eat my bacon crisp. It’s still the way I prefer to eat bacon. Not burned, just crisp.

Crisp bacon must seem like sacrilege to the typical European. It’s a cultural thing. But hey, if we wanted crisp bacon, we’d be in Cleveland, right? When in Rome…

 

The main point is that eggs and bacon and some type of bread, along with coffee are staples at hotels on both sides of the Atlantic. The most popular menu item at our breakfast joint back home is the Number One. It’s first on the menu and first in the hearts of our customers. The Number One is two eggs cooked any style (although we end up serving what would amount to four eggs), bacon, ham, or sausage, hash browns or grits, and toast or a biscuit. There are options within the options such as wheat toast, sourdough, or white and spicy or mild hash browns, regular or cheese grits, and spicy or mild sausage. But the base food groups stay the same.

The base food groups stay the same in European hotels, too, with the addition of a lot of local fruits, vegetables, yogurt, and the occasional bowl of baked beans.

My bacon cooking preference has changed over the years, but my egg preference has basically remained the same. I go for sunny side up on occasion, and still eat soft-boiled sometimes, but for the most part, I’m a scrambled guy at heart. My son is too. He’s a much healthier eater than I am, and all through high school would eat six to eight scrambled eggs every morning along with four to five pieces of bacon— no bread, ever. To him it was about his daily protein intake.

I had breakfast with Julia Child twice. I was in awe of her knowledge, passion, and modesty. I learned volumes in the short time we visited. On the first occasion we talked about cooking. Her favorite ingredient, “Butter”. Her cooking advice, “Know the basics and everything else will fall into place”.

During our second breakfast she shared tips on how to maintain a healthy lifestyle while cooking with classic French ingredients. When I asked how she was able to stay fit and trim after years of cooking with heavy cream and butter, she said, “Eat small portions. Don’t deny yourself good food. Have three or four bites and leave the rest on the plate.” Both times we spoke about eggs. She told me her recipe for the perfect scrambled egg, and it’s the method I still use today.

Onward.

Julia Child’s Scrambled Egg Method

3       Eggs, large

2 tsp  Half & Half

1 Tbl Butter

Salt and pepper to taste.

Crack eggs in a small bowl and stir well with a fork until the yolks and whites have just incorporated. Do not stir too vigorously or you will add air to the eggs. Add cream to eggs and stir well.

In a non-stick skillet over moderately low heat, melt the butter and tilt the pan to coat the entire surface. Add the egg mixture to the skillet. Using a rubber spatula slowly scrape the bottom of the skillet until the eggs begin to coagulate. Continue to carefully stir the eggs until they are “just done”. The eggs should be almost fully cooked and custard-like (Julia Child calls them “custardy lumps”) yet have a slightly wet and shiny sheen to them.

 

Remove eggs from the skillet immediately and transfer to a plate (the eggs will continue to cook slightly for the next 30-45 seconds so it imperative to remove them just before they are done). Add salt and pepper to taste.



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Trollfest '09

Trollfest '07 was such a success that Jackson Jambalaya will once again host Trollfest '09. Catch this great event which will leave NE Jackson & Fondren in flames. Othor Cain and his band, The Black Power Structure headline the night while Sonjay Poontang returns for an encore performance. Former Frank Melton bodyguard Marcus Wright makes his premier appearance at Trollfest singing "I'm a Sweet Transvestite" from "The Rocky Horror Picture Show." Kamikaze will sing his new hit, “How I sold out to da Man.” Robbie Bell again performs: “Mamas, don't let your babies grow up to be Bells” and “Any friend of Ed Peters is a friend of mine”. After the show, Ms. Bell will autograph copies of her mug shot photos. In a salute to “Dancing with the Stars”, Ms. Bell and Hinds County District Attorney Robert Smith will dance the Wango Tango.

Wrestling returns, except this time it will be a Battle Royal with Othor Cain, Ben Allen, Kim Wade, Haley Fisackerly, Alan Lange, and “Big Cat” Donna Ladd all in the ring at the same time. The Battle Royal will be in a steel cage, no time limit, no referee, and the losers must leave town. Marshand Crisler will be the honorary referee (as it gives him a title without actually having to do anything).


Meet KIM Waaaaaade at the Entergy Tent. For five pesos, Kim will sell you a chance to win a deed to a crack house on Ridgeway Street stuffed in the Howard Industries pinata. Don't worry if the pinata is beaten to shreds, as Mr. Wade has Jose, Emmanuel, and Carlos, all illegal immigrants, available as replacements for the it. Upon leaving the Entergy tent, fig leaves will be available in case Entergy literally takes everything you have as part of its Trollfest ticket price adjustment charge.

Donna Ladd of The Jackson Free Press will give several classes on learning how to write. Smearing, writing without factchecking, and reporting only one side of a story will be covered. A donation to pay their taxes will be accepted and she will be signing copies of their former federal tax liens. Ms. Ladd will give a dramatic reading of her two award-winning essays (They received The Jackson Free Press "Best Of" awards.) "Why everything is always about me" and "Why I cover murders better than anyone else in Jackson".

In the spirit of helping those who are less fortunate, Trollfest '09 adopts a cause for which a portion of the proceeds and donations will be donated: Keeping Frank Melton in his home. The “Keep Frank Melton From Being Homeless” booth will sell chances for five dollars to pin the tail on the jackass. John Reeves has graciously volunteered to be the jackass for this honorable excursion into saving Frank's ass. What's an ass between two friends after all? If Mr. Reeves is unable to um, perform, Speaker Billy McCoy has also volunteered as when the word “jackass” was mentioned he immediately ran as fast as he could to sign up.


In order to help clean up the legal profession, Adam Kilgore of the Mississippi Bar will be giving away free, round-trip plane tickets to the North Pole where they keep their bar complaint forms (which are NOT available online). If you don't want to go to the North Pole, you can enjoy Brant Brantley's (of the Mississippi Commission on Judicial Performance) free guided tours of the quicksand field over by High Street where all complaints against judges disappear. If for some reason you are unable to control yourself, never fear; Judge Houston Patton will operate his jail where no lawyers are needed or allowed as you just sit there for minutes... hours.... months...years until he decides he is tired of you sitting in his jail. Do not think Judge Patton is a bad judge however as he plans to serve free Mad Dog 20/20 to all inmates.

Trollfest '09 is a pet-friendly event as well. Feel free to bring your dog with you and do not worry if your pet gets hungry, as employees of the Jackson Zoo will be on hand to provide some of their animals as food when it gets to be feeding time for your little loved one.

Relax at the Fox News Tent. Since there are only three blonde reporters in Jackson (being blonde is a requirement for working at Fox News), Megan and Kathryn from WAPT and Wendy from WLBT will be on loan to Fox. To gain admittance to the VIP section, bring either your Republican Party ID card or a Rebel Flag. Bringing both and a torn-up Obama yard sign will entitle you to free drinks served by Megan, Wendy, and Kathryn. Get your tickets now. Since this is an event for trolls, no ID is required. Just bring the hate. Bring the family, Trollfest '09 is for EVERYONE!!!

This is definitely a Beaver production.


Note: Security provided by INS.

Trollfest '07

Jackson Jambalaya is the home of Trollfest '07. Catch this great event which promises to leave NE Jackson & Fondren in flames. Sonjay Poontang and his band headline the night with a special steel cage, no time limit "loser must leave town" bout between Alan Lange and "Big Cat"Donna Ladd following afterwards. Kamikaze will perform his new song F*** Bush, he's still a _____. Did I mention there was no referee? Dr. Heddy Matthias and Lori Gregory will face off in the undercard dueling with dangling participles and other um, devices. Robbie Bell will perform Her two latest songs: My Best Friends are in the Media and Mama's, Don't Let Your Babies Grow up to be George Bell. Sid Salter of The Clarion-Ledger will host "Pin the Tail on the Trial Lawyer", sponsored by State Farm.

There will be a hugging booth where in exchange for your young son, Frank Melton will give you a loooong hug. Trollfest will have a dunking booth where Muhammed the terrorist will curse you to Allah as you try to hit a target that will drop him into a vat of pig grease. However, in the true spirit of Separate But Equal, Don Imus and someone from NE Jackson will also sit in the dunking booth for an equal amount of time. Tom Head will give a reading for two hours on why he can't figure out who the hell he is. Cliff Cargill will give lessons with his .80 caliber desert eagle, using Frank Melton photos as targets. Tackleberry will be on hand for an autograph session. KIM Waaaaaade will be passing out free titles and deeds to crackhouses formerly owned by The Wood Street Players.

If you get tired come relax at the Fox News Tent. To gain admittance to the VIP section, bring either your Republican Party ID card or a Rebel Flag. Bringing both will entitle you to free drinks.Get your tickets now. Since this is an event for trolls, no ID is required, just bring the hate. Bring the family, Trollfest '07 is for EVERYONE!!!

This is definitely a Beaver production.

Note: Security provided by INS
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