Wednesday, July 2, 2025

Robert St. John: A Roast Beef Po-Boy & a Curtain Call

We landed in New Orleans on Sunday, which isn’t when most people arrive in New Orleans unless they’ve made a mistake. It had been a quick trip to New York. In and out. Just two days. The main reason was a play I didn’t want to miss—a revival of David Mamet’s Glengarry Glen Ross. Bob Odenkirk, Kieran Culkin, Bill Burr, and Michael McKean—men who seem like they should be at entirely different cocktail parties, but who worked surprisingly well together. It was sharp, fast, and funny in that dark, uncomfortable way Mamet always nails.

We caught another show while we were there and knocked a few restaurants off the running list. But that play was the anchor.


And the whole time, I thought about my mom.


She’s been gone eight months now. Died last fall at ninety-one. She lived a life that would’ve buckled most folks by middle age. Widowed in her thirties, she raised two boys, went back to school, got her master’s in art, and taught for the next fifty years. Private lessons in our attic, public schools, private schools, some college work, too. She taught until she was eighty. Not because she dreamed of shaping young minds—but because we were broke.


The phrase people use is “a full life,” which is code for “she worked herself into the ground and didn’t get nearly enough credit for it.”


She never remarried. She was the whole deal—the one who kept the lights on, kept the car running, and dragged me all over town to art galleries, museum openings, and craft shows when I’d have rather been anywhere else. My brother had a way of disappearing when those things came up. I didn’t get a pass.


I could give you a list of things I would have rather been doing—and none of them included watching someone demonstrate paper marbling or the finer points of stained glass etching. I wasn’t exactly begging to hear about glazing techniques or the symbolism in fiber art installations before lunch. But if there was an art event within 40 miles, we were going.

 



The first time I ever saw a Mardi Gras Indian wasn’t during a parade. It was at Jazz Fest, sometime in the mid-’70s. She checked us out of school on a Friday, drove us down to New Orleans, and bought us roast beef poboys at the Acme Oyster Bar—she always said that was our dad’s favorite place. Then we walked the fairgrounds. No agenda. No explanation. She just figured we ought to see it. 


In 1972, she and a friend opened an art gallery in town. They called it The Cardboard Cow, named after a painting by Beverly Dennis that hung near the entrance. I was ten. They paid me five dollars to mow the grass, which probably violated a labor law or two, but seemed fair at the time. I pushed our big wheel Yazoo mower two miles through Mississippi heat to get there. When I needed a break, I’d slip inside and pretend to admire the art while soaking up the air conditioning.


Eventually, I started asking questions. “What is this supposed to be?” “Why is everything so orange?” “Are people supposed to buy this?” Someone working the gallery would usually answer. 

That’s how it started.


My mom worked in pastels, charcoal, watercolor—whatever the piece called for—but pen and ink was where she was strongest. Her line work was clean, detailed, and technical. In her later years, she tried to make a living doing portraits, which mostly meant being paid to paint people’s grandchildren, which mostly meant pretending all grandchildren are equally cute. Her best work happened before she had to monetize it. That’s probably true for a lot of us.


The gallery didn’t last long. Most galleries in small towns don’t. But something stuck. Not just the exposure to art, but the idea that someone could start something, put their name on it, and own it. That was my first real lesson in entrepreneurship—though at the time, I thought it was just a clever way to make me push a lawnmower for an unmarked five-dollar bill.


Theater snuck up on me in the same way.


One year, she took me to see The King and I in New Orleans. A traveling production. Yul Brynner was performing. I didn’t want to go. I was bribed with a poboy from the Acme and made to wear a coat and tie. That was standard back then. I sat through the first act with my arms crossed, quietly rooting against it. Brynner ended up playing that role more than 4,600 times. I don’t know which number in that order I saw, but somewhere in the second act, it got to me. It felt like watching a movie in person.


I never told her I liked it. Not then. But I never forgot it.

As much as I love movies—and I really do—not many have stayed with me the way a good play can. Maybe it’s because it’s live. Maybe because it’s risky. Or maybe it’s just that a play feels like something you’re a part of, not just watching.

I couldn’t name them all. But the good ones stuck.

• Yul Brynner in The King and I. The gateway drug. First one. Can’t top it.
• Gary Sinise in One Flew Over the Cuckoo’s Nest at Steppenwolf. Played it loud. Played it honest.
• Alan Cumming in Cabaret. The first revival in the Studio 54 space. Dark, sharp, unforgettable.
• Sean Hayes and Kristin Chenoweth in Promises, Promises. Neil Simon jokes and Burt Bacharach melodies—what’s not to love?
• Nathan Lane in A Funny Thing Happened on the Way to the Forum. Hit every beat. Made it look easy.
• And just last week—Glengarry Glen Ross. Odenkirk, Culkin, Burr, McKean. Four guys who knew exactly what they were doing. And did it.

It’s not that I’ve seen more plays than movies. Not even close. But the ones that land—really land—stick. Longer than most films ever have. Maybe it’s the in-person liveness of it. The risk. Or maybe it’s just that the first one came with a poboy and a story about my dad.

My mother never sat me down to explain art. She just brought me along. Galleries. Plays. Festivals. No lesson plan. No big talk. Just the belief that something might take if I was close enough to it.

And it did.

When we landed yesterday, I drove straight to the Acme on Veterans and ordered a roast beef poboy. Same as always. And somewhere between the first bite and the last, I said a quiet thank you.


For all the places I didn’t know I needed to go.


Onward.

 

 

 

 

Italian Cheesecake

If you are a fan of American-style cream cheese cheesecake, this might not be your dessert. Though if you like something lighter and less sweet, this is the dessert for you.

5 each                  Large egg yolks
1 ¼ cups    Sugar
½ tsp          Kosher salt
2 cups                  Ricotta cheese, drained , at room temperature
2 cups                  Mascarpone cheese, at room temperature
Zest of 1 lemon
Zest of 1 orange
2 TB           Unsalted butter
¾ cup                  Crumbled biscotti 

Preheat oven to 275.

Combine egg yolks, sugar and salt in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Beat on high speed until foamy and the sugar dissolves, about 2 minutes.

Add the ricotta, mascarpone, lemon zest and orange zest and beat on medium speed for 3 minutes. Scrape down the sides and the bottom of the bowl and continue beating on medium speed for an additional 3 minutes. The batter should be smooth and have no lumps.

Using the butter, grease the bottom and the sides of a 9" spring form pan and sprinkle with the biscotti crumbs. Pour the batter into the spring form pan, using a spatula to smooth the top. Bake for 40-50 minutes, until set. It will begin to firm as it cooks but should still jiggle slightly when shaken. Allow the cheesecake to set in the refrigerator overnight. Slice with a knife dipped in hot water to create smooth edges along each slice. 

Yield: 10-12 servings

 


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Trollfest '09

Trollfest '07 was such a success that Jackson Jambalaya will once again host Trollfest '09. Catch this great event which will leave NE Jackson & Fondren in flames. Othor Cain and his band, The Black Power Structure headline the night while Sonjay Poontang returns for an encore performance. Former Frank Melton bodyguard Marcus Wright makes his premier appearance at Trollfest singing "I'm a Sweet Transvestite" from "The Rocky Horror Picture Show." Kamikaze will sing his new hit, “How I sold out to da Man.” Robbie Bell again performs: “Mamas, don't let your babies grow up to be Bells” and “Any friend of Ed Peters is a friend of mine”. After the show, Ms. Bell will autograph copies of her mug shot photos. In a salute to “Dancing with the Stars”, Ms. Bell and Hinds County District Attorney Robert Smith will dance the Wango Tango.

Wrestling returns, except this time it will be a Battle Royal with Othor Cain, Ben Allen, Kim Wade, Haley Fisackerly, Alan Lange, and “Big Cat” Donna Ladd all in the ring at the same time. The Battle Royal will be in a steel cage, no time limit, no referee, and the losers must leave town. Marshand Crisler will be the honorary referee (as it gives him a title without actually having to do anything).


Meet KIM Waaaaaade at the Entergy Tent. For five pesos, Kim will sell you a chance to win a deed to a crack house on Ridgeway Street stuffed in the Howard Industries pinata. Don't worry if the pinata is beaten to shreds, as Mr. Wade has Jose, Emmanuel, and Carlos, all illegal immigrants, available as replacements for the it. Upon leaving the Entergy tent, fig leaves will be available in case Entergy literally takes everything you have as part of its Trollfest ticket price adjustment charge.

Donna Ladd of The Jackson Free Press will give several classes on learning how to write. Smearing, writing without factchecking, and reporting only one side of a story will be covered. A donation to pay their taxes will be accepted and she will be signing copies of their former federal tax liens. Ms. Ladd will give a dramatic reading of her two award-winning essays (They received The Jackson Free Press "Best Of" awards.) "Why everything is always about me" and "Why I cover murders better than anyone else in Jackson".

In the spirit of helping those who are less fortunate, Trollfest '09 adopts a cause for which a portion of the proceeds and donations will be donated: Keeping Frank Melton in his home. The “Keep Frank Melton From Being Homeless” booth will sell chances for five dollars to pin the tail on the jackass. John Reeves has graciously volunteered to be the jackass for this honorable excursion into saving Frank's ass. What's an ass between two friends after all? If Mr. Reeves is unable to um, perform, Speaker Billy McCoy has also volunteered as when the word “jackass” was mentioned he immediately ran as fast as he could to sign up.


In order to help clean up the legal profession, Adam Kilgore of the Mississippi Bar will be giving away free, round-trip plane tickets to the North Pole where they keep their bar complaint forms (which are NOT available online). If you don't want to go to the North Pole, you can enjoy Brant Brantley's (of the Mississippi Commission on Judicial Performance) free guided tours of the quicksand field over by High Street where all complaints against judges disappear. If for some reason you are unable to control yourself, never fear; Judge Houston Patton will operate his jail where no lawyers are needed or allowed as you just sit there for minutes... hours.... months...years until he decides he is tired of you sitting in his jail. Do not think Judge Patton is a bad judge however as he plans to serve free Mad Dog 20/20 to all inmates.

Trollfest '09 is a pet-friendly event as well. Feel free to bring your dog with you and do not worry if your pet gets hungry, as employees of the Jackson Zoo will be on hand to provide some of their animals as food when it gets to be feeding time for your little loved one.

Relax at the Fox News Tent. Since there are only three blonde reporters in Jackson (being blonde is a requirement for working at Fox News), Megan and Kathryn from WAPT and Wendy from WLBT will be on loan to Fox. To gain admittance to the VIP section, bring either your Republican Party ID card or a Rebel Flag. Bringing both and a torn-up Obama yard sign will entitle you to free drinks served by Megan, Wendy, and Kathryn. Get your tickets now. Since this is an event for trolls, no ID is required. Just bring the hate. Bring the family, Trollfest '09 is for EVERYONE!!!

This is definitely a Beaver production.


Note: Security provided by INS.

Trollfest '07

Jackson Jambalaya is the home of Trollfest '07. Catch this great event which promises to leave NE Jackson & Fondren in flames. Sonjay Poontang and his band headline the night with a special steel cage, no time limit "loser must leave town" bout between Alan Lange and "Big Cat"Donna Ladd following afterwards. Kamikaze will perform his new song F*** Bush, he's still a _____. Did I mention there was no referee? Dr. Heddy Matthias and Lori Gregory will face off in the undercard dueling with dangling participles and other um, devices. Robbie Bell will perform Her two latest songs: My Best Friends are in the Media and Mama's, Don't Let Your Babies Grow up to be George Bell. Sid Salter of The Clarion-Ledger will host "Pin the Tail on the Trial Lawyer", sponsored by State Farm.

There will be a hugging booth where in exchange for your young son, Frank Melton will give you a loooong hug. Trollfest will have a dunking booth where Muhammed the terrorist will curse you to Allah as you try to hit a target that will drop him into a vat of pig grease. However, in the true spirit of Separate But Equal, Don Imus and someone from NE Jackson will also sit in the dunking booth for an equal amount of time. Tom Head will give a reading for two hours on why he can't figure out who the hell he is. Cliff Cargill will give lessons with his .80 caliber desert eagle, using Frank Melton photos as targets. Tackleberry will be on hand for an autograph session. KIM Waaaaaade will be passing out free titles and deeds to crackhouses formerly owned by The Wood Street Players.

If you get tired come relax at the Fox News Tent. To gain admittance to the VIP section, bring either your Republican Party ID card or a Rebel Flag. Bringing both will entitle you to free drinks.Get your tickets now. Since this is an event for trolls, no ID is required, just bring the hate. Bring the family, Trollfest '07 is for EVERYONE!!!

This is definitely a Beaver production.

Note: Security provided by INS
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