Wednesday, June 26, 2024

Robert St. John: The Bear Truths

The third season of the Hulu original program, “The Bear” will air this week. If you’re unfamiliar with the series, it’s an intense, frenetic, high-paced show about disfunction, passion, commitment, growth, failure, and success. Or more succinctly, it’s about the restaurant business.

“The Bear” tells the story of a Michelin-starred chef who returns home to Chicago to take over his family’s struggling sandwich shop after the death of his brother. In preparation for this upcoming third season, I streamed the first two seasons over the weekend. It was my third time through.

I watched the first season as soon as it premiered a couple of years ago. On my first viewing, I had several problems with the series. The yelling, in-fighting, cussing (according to IMDB there is an f-word every 34 seconds and one episode records one every 13 seconds), and back-stabbing seemed to represent my industry at its worst, and the way it used to be. I told my wife, “No one is going to want to get into this business after watching this show.” My second time around I came to the realization that some restaurants probably have a culture like that, and it is probably an accurate— though not favorable— representation of the challenges faced in this industry.


The second season was better. It covers the closing of the sandwich shop and the opening of a fine-dining concept. Other than a brutally intense episode that covers the worst Christmas Eve dinner in the history of Christmas Eve dinners— which is extremely difficult to watch but certainly an example of impressive script writing, acting, and filmmaking— it’s spot on and covers the complexities of opening a restaurant concept and the challenges and traumas involved in such a task.

Opening a restaurant is one of the most stressful activities one will ever encounter. The restaurant business can be brutal. Fifty percent of independent restaurants close within three years. Only 5% make it to the 10-year mark. After 24 openings, I’ve been on both sides of that stat.

Upon completion of my third viewing of the first two seasons I have a completely different attitude about “The Bear” than I did the first two times around. Although I have never been involved in a concept where the screaming was as intense as portrayed in the show, I have seen and experienced almost everything that happens in those first 17 episodes over the course of my 43-year career in this industry, at least once.

During this last viewing binge, I realized that my discomfort the first two times around was probably due to a small case of PTSD from my early days in this industry. It hit too close to home in places. After six years as a waiter— and after working my way through a very long and storied college career— I opened my first restaurant at 26-years-old. In an experience worthy of an episode of “The Bear,” we fired our chef opening night. I spent the next four years working 90 hours a week behind the line in the kitchen while paying myself $250.00 per week.

Those early days were filled with countless challenges. The volatility, screaming, and cussing weren’t there, but the stress level was. Yes, fire suppression systems have randomly gone off forcing the closure of the lunch shift. But we recovered and opened for dinner. Utility bills have been late, but we never lost power. I used to sit down with the checkbook on the 15th of every month to pay bills from the previous month and pray that there would be enough money in the account to cover all we had spent. When there wasn’t, I skipped a paycheck. Over the years I’ve skipped a lot of paychecks. But I have always paid our team members and I have always paid our bills.

My attitude in those early days was that I was going to do whatever it took to keep the lights on and to keep people employed. From driving to the bus station several times a week to pick up fresh seafood packed in ice and shipped up from Florida because we didn’t have access to fresh fish in those days, to bailing team members out of jail at 3 a.m. I don’t bail people out of jail any longer, but I still do whatever is needed to keep the doors open.

After firing our chef and spending those grueling all-consuming weeks in the kitchen just trying to hold it all together every shift, I now realize that— when viewed from a 10,000-fooot level and if portrayed on a show or film— it probably looks like misery to an outsider. We were living “The Bear.” But, from my standpoint, and as I look back, I have nothing but fond memories. Those early days are the golden days for me. It was hard and I made virtually no money, but the dirty little secret is that, if I would have had any money, I would have paid someone for the privilege of owning my own restaurant.

Has it all been sunshine and rainbows? Nope. As described on the show, the early days of a restaurant are like, “A kick in the crotch, daily.” I’ve opened 24 restaurants over the course of my career. Some were hits, some weren’t. Some are still open. Some aren’t. Some I closed because I wanted to. Some I closed because they needed to be closed, and some I just let the lease run out.

I’ve been on the verge of bankruptcy three times, and even though I was advised to walk away and bankrupt a concept, I’ve declined and always paid all the accounts due, no matter how long it took. Sometimes a restaurant hits. Sometimes it doesn’t. The key is to keep moving forward and be willing to endure the blows, set your ego aside, and always be willing to change. Sometimes the restaurant business is about paying Christmas bonuses out of your pocket when you’re not getting one, and sometimes it’s about positive cash flows and a healthy bottom line.

How could I ever have thought that “The Bear” wasn’t accurate? I have lived that show over the past quarter century, and I have loved almost every minute.

Ultimately, “The Bear” is about how to open and grow a business. It’s about family, friends, relationships, overcoming challenges, dealing with challenging professional problems, dedication, sticktoitiveness, stress, and passion. It is well written, superbly acted, and the character arcs are inspiring.

It’s about the restaurant industry, warts and all.

The key to success in the restaurant business is never giving up. Thirty-seven years in as an owner and we are— BY FAR— better than we have ever been. Sales at the flagship are up more than 10%, and more than 40% on some days. Profits are up 193%, year to date. Almost all the others are seeing excellent growth and are thriving. There are a couple of problem children in the group, but it’s the restaurant business, and as the nation’s foremost restaurateur, Danny Meyer, once said, “Business is problems. A successful business is problems well handled. If you can’t handle problems, get out of business.”

I’m not going anywhere.

The reason we are seeing record business and record profits is that we have an engaged leadership team along with 450 team members who are doing their best to live our core values and mission, daily. Ultimately, the restaurant business is not the food and drink business. It’s the people business. And that’s where “The Bear” nails it.

Onward.

Aunt Tina’s Salad Dressing

1/2 cup sugar

1/2 cup brown sugar

2 tsp creole mustard

1/4 cup red wine vinegar

1/4 cup balsamic vinegar

1 Tbl soy sauce

1 Tbl fresh shallot, minced

1 tsp salt

1 tsp fresh ground black pepper

Place all ingredients in a mixing bowl and blend thoroughly with a wire whisk. This may be made a day or two in advance and held in the refrigerator.

For the salad 1/4 cup unsalted butter

1/2 cup walnuts, chopped

1/2 package Ramon noodles, uncooked and broken into small pieces. (Discard seasoning packet)

1 head fresh romaine lettuce

1 cup fresh broccoli, cut into very small bits

1/4 cup green onions, thinly sliced

1/2 cup dried apricots, chopped

Use a very shard knife to cut the romaine into 2 inch pieces. Wash dry the lettuce very well. Refrigerate covered while preparing the other ingredients.

Place the butter in a medium sized sauté pan over low-medium heat. Once the butter is melted and begins to bubble slightly, stir in the walnuts and Ramon pieces. Cook for 5-6 minutes, stirring constantly to prevent burning. Remove from heat and place the toasted nuts and noodles on a paper towel to drain and cool.

In a large mixing bowl, combine the lettuce, nut mixture, broccoli, green onions and apricots. Stir the dressing well before drizzling it over the salad. Toss the salad until the lettuce is well coated with dressing and serve immediately
.

Yield: 6-8 servings


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Trollfest '09

Trollfest '07 was such a success that Jackson Jambalaya will once again host Trollfest '09. Catch this great event which will leave NE Jackson & Fondren in flames. Othor Cain and his band, The Black Power Structure headline the night while Sonjay Poontang returns for an encore performance. Former Frank Melton bodyguard Marcus Wright makes his premier appearance at Trollfest singing "I'm a Sweet Transvestite" from "The Rocky Horror Picture Show." Kamikaze will sing his new hit, “How I sold out to da Man.” Robbie Bell again performs: “Mamas, don't let your babies grow up to be Bells” and “Any friend of Ed Peters is a friend of mine”. After the show, Ms. Bell will autograph copies of her mug shot photos. In a salute to “Dancing with the Stars”, Ms. Bell and Hinds County District Attorney Robert Smith will dance the Wango Tango.

Wrestling returns, except this time it will be a Battle Royal with Othor Cain, Ben Allen, Kim Wade, Haley Fisackerly, Alan Lange, and “Big Cat” Donna Ladd all in the ring at the same time. The Battle Royal will be in a steel cage, no time limit, no referee, and the losers must leave town. Marshand Crisler will be the honorary referee (as it gives him a title without actually having to do anything).


Meet KIM Waaaaaade at the Entergy Tent. For five pesos, Kim will sell you a chance to win a deed to a crack house on Ridgeway Street stuffed in the Howard Industries pinata. Don't worry if the pinata is beaten to shreds, as Mr. Wade has Jose, Emmanuel, and Carlos, all illegal immigrants, available as replacements for the it. Upon leaving the Entergy tent, fig leaves will be available in case Entergy literally takes everything you have as part of its Trollfest ticket price adjustment charge.

Donna Ladd of The Jackson Free Press will give several classes on learning how to write. Smearing, writing without factchecking, and reporting only one side of a story will be covered. A donation to pay their taxes will be accepted and she will be signing copies of their former federal tax liens. Ms. Ladd will give a dramatic reading of her two award-winning essays (They received The Jackson Free Press "Best Of" awards.) "Why everything is always about me" and "Why I cover murders better than anyone else in Jackson".

In the spirit of helping those who are less fortunate, Trollfest '09 adopts a cause for which a portion of the proceeds and donations will be donated: Keeping Frank Melton in his home. The “Keep Frank Melton From Being Homeless” booth will sell chances for five dollars to pin the tail on the jackass. John Reeves has graciously volunteered to be the jackass for this honorable excursion into saving Frank's ass. What's an ass between two friends after all? If Mr. Reeves is unable to um, perform, Speaker Billy McCoy has also volunteered as when the word “jackass” was mentioned he immediately ran as fast as he could to sign up.


In order to help clean up the legal profession, Adam Kilgore of the Mississippi Bar will be giving away free, round-trip plane tickets to the North Pole where they keep their bar complaint forms (which are NOT available online). If you don't want to go to the North Pole, you can enjoy Brant Brantley's (of the Mississippi Commission on Judicial Performance) free guided tours of the quicksand field over by High Street where all complaints against judges disappear. If for some reason you are unable to control yourself, never fear; Judge Houston Patton will operate his jail where no lawyers are needed or allowed as you just sit there for minutes... hours.... months...years until he decides he is tired of you sitting in his jail. Do not think Judge Patton is a bad judge however as he plans to serve free Mad Dog 20/20 to all inmates.

Trollfest '09 is a pet-friendly event as well. Feel free to bring your dog with you and do not worry if your pet gets hungry, as employees of the Jackson Zoo will be on hand to provide some of their animals as food when it gets to be feeding time for your little loved one.

Relax at the Fox News Tent. Since there are only three blonde reporters in Jackson (being blonde is a requirement for working at Fox News), Megan and Kathryn from WAPT and Wendy from WLBT will be on loan to Fox. To gain admittance to the VIP section, bring either your Republican Party ID card or a Rebel Flag. Bringing both and a torn-up Obama yard sign will entitle you to free drinks served by Megan, Wendy, and Kathryn. Get your tickets now. Since this is an event for trolls, no ID is required. Just bring the hate. Bring the family, Trollfest '09 is for EVERYONE!!!

This is definitely a Beaver production.


Note: Security provided by INS.

Trollfest '07

Jackson Jambalaya is the home of Trollfest '07. Catch this great event which promises to leave NE Jackson & Fondren in flames. Sonjay Poontang and his band headline the night with a special steel cage, no time limit "loser must leave town" bout between Alan Lange and "Big Cat"Donna Ladd following afterwards. Kamikaze will perform his new song F*** Bush, he's still a _____. Did I mention there was no referee? Dr. Heddy Matthias and Lori Gregory will face off in the undercard dueling with dangling participles and other um, devices. Robbie Bell will perform Her two latest songs: My Best Friends are in the Media and Mama's, Don't Let Your Babies Grow up to be George Bell. Sid Salter of The Clarion-Ledger will host "Pin the Tail on the Trial Lawyer", sponsored by State Farm.

There will be a hugging booth where in exchange for your young son, Frank Melton will give you a loooong hug. Trollfest will have a dunking booth where Muhammed the terrorist will curse you to Allah as you try to hit a target that will drop him into a vat of pig grease. However, in the true spirit of Separate But Equal, Don Imus and someone from NE Jackson will also sit in the dunking booth for an equal amount of time. Tom Head will give a reading for two hours on why he can't figure out who the hell he is. Cliff Cargill will give lessons with his .80 caliber desert eagle, using Frank Melton photos as targets. Tackleberry will be on hand for an autograph session. KIM Waaaaaade will be passing out free titles and deeds to crackhouses formerly owned by The Wood Street Players.

If you get tired come relax at the Fox News Tent. To gain admittance to the VIP section, bring either your Republican Party ID card or a Rebel Flag. Bringing both will entitle you to free drinks.Get your tickets now. Since this is an event for trolls, no ID is required, just bring the hate. Bring the family, Trollfest '07 is for EVERYONE!!!

This is definitely a Beaver production.

Note: Security provided by INS
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