There are three constants that have been ever-present in my life from day one— food, music, and art. For the purposes of this column— and the release of my latest coffee table cookbook— I will focus on art. I am not an artist. Though I grew up in the house of an artist.
Tragedy
struck my family early. My father died at 36. I was six. My brother was ten. My
mother, who had earned an undergraduate degree in art a decade earlier, went
back to school, received her master’s degree, and began teaching art to support
our family. She continued to teach art for the next 50 years.
Growing up
in the house of an artist sets one apart from the other families in the
neighborhood, and, to my thinking, in a good way. Before she began teaching in
the public and private school systems, and later at the university level, she
taught in a small makeshift studio, just off the attic, on the second floor of
our home. Our house always smelled of Grumbacher oil paint, wax candles,
turpentine, and gumbo.
In the
early years our mother took my brother and me to any art event that came within
a day’s drive of our South Mississippi home in Hattiesburg. As kids we pled to
go to amusement parks. She took us to art galleries. We begged to go to
concerts, she took us to arts festivals. Today we are both better for it. She
even opened a commercial art gallery at one point. It was there that I was
first introduced to the work of Walter Anderson.
What
attracted me immediately to the work of Anderson— even as a 10-year-old— were
the coastal themes and especially the shrimp, crab, and fish. Anderson’s
Mississippi Coast spoke to me. His Coast eventually became my Coast.
Our mother
knew that she wasn't going to be able to play backyard football or hunt, but
she figured she could learn how to fish. So, she took what little savings she
had, and purchased a small lot just outside of Vancleave, Mississippi in the
middle of the last unregulated major river system in the lower 48 states. The
camp was nothing more than a single-wide mobile home, but it was paradise. We
were two blocks away from John’s Bayou which trickled into the brackish water
of Bluff Creek, which flowed into the Pascagoula River which swiftly passed
Walter Anderson’s in-law’s estate at Oldfields before heading out into the
Mississippi Sound to Round Island and eventually to Anderson’s Gulf of Mexico barrier
islet muse, Horn Island.
In the
early fish camp days, on a trip “into town,” my mother took us to Shearwater Pottery,
the Anderson family art compound in Ocean Springs. It was there— sometime in
the late sixties or very early seventies— that she bought an Anderson alligator
block print, on wallpaper, which was likely printed and painted by his eldest
daughter, Mary, or maybe his wife, Sissy. That alligator hung above the mantle
in the den of our home for as long as I can remember. When my mother eventually
moved from our childhood home, she gave me the alligator for my home, where it
hangs today.
It was the
most iconic art in our house. Everything important in the life of our family
happened with Anderson’s alligator in the background. That is what art does, it
weaves itself into the fabric of families. Now— with a recently released
documentary on the artist’s life and a new companion coffee table book just
released— Anderson hangs in the foreground of my life.
I have
always believed that the best art has a sense of place. I’m not sure if there has
ever been an artist, in the history of artists, who was more “of his place”
than Walter Anderson. He ventured out from his “place” on occasion, once as far
as China. But we felt the Mississippi Coast in that work, even still. Anderson
was so of his place he spent thousands of nights— over the course of 20 years— sleeping
in the sand, under a small wooden skiff on Horn Island. He traveled to his
place using two wooden oars and a bedsheet for a sail. He endured rough seas,
rising tides, blistering heat, humidity, mosquitoes, and even the wrath of a
hurricane for one solitary reason— his art. He had no choice. He had to do it.
He had to get it out of his head and onto paper. Though I suspect the route
didn’t originate in the head but came from the heart on its way to those sheets
of 8 1/2 by 11-inch typing paper.
Good
artists want to paint. Great artists must paint, and the greatest artists must
paint at the expense of everything else, and everyone else, in their lives.
Walter Anderson was certainly among the greatest. Tagged “America’s Van Gogh,”
by art critics, he sacrificed everything for his art— his family, his friends,
his social life, and in brief stints, his emotional health and well-being. The
Anderson children grew up— not in the house of an artist— but on the grounds of
an artist. He made choices, everyone in his life accepted his choices, and the
world today is a better place because of that acceptance and those choices.
My
grandfather once told me, “The hardest thing to do is to do something nice for
someone, then never tell anyone about your good deed.” If that is true, then
Anderson did the hardest thing an artist could ever do. He created thousands of
watercolors and locked them away in a hand-painted chest in a small, beautiful
room that he had painted literally from floor to ceiling for no one to see.
My
grandfather would say that he did the toughest thing an artist could do. I
would say he did the purest thing an artist could do. I am told that Van Gogh
never sold a piece of art in his lifetime, but I don’t think it was for the lack
of desire to sell. Anderson used his art for campfire lighter fuel on Horn
Island and the ones that made it back to shore at Shearwater were locked away
for no one to see. After his death his sister-n-law rescued a large stack of
watercolors in the fireplace of his home. The stack was so big that it—
thankfully— put out the fire when he dropped it in.
It was
about the experience.
To my
thinking, the most poignant moment in the life of Anderson occurred when
escaping a mental hospital during one of his two stays over the course of his
life. Some people are born to make an entrance. Anderson was one who lived to
make an exit.
He could
have walked out of the front door of that hospital at any moment as he was not
court-ordered but self-admitted into the facility. Yet he chose— as he did in
almost every decision he ever made in his life—to take the creative way, the
dreamers route the artist’s exit. In the middle of the night, he fastened
together torn bed sheets to form a makeshift rope, tied it to the corner of the
bed, climbed out of the window, and lowered himself to the ground. To me,
Walter Inglis Anderson’s life can be summed up in that instant. The moment he lowered
himself to freedom tells me more than anything about Anderson. More than tying
himself to a tree during a hurricane. More than living the life of a recluse
sheltered from society, more than rowing a small wooden boat 12 miles out to an
uninhabited barrier island. As he lowered himself down, he used a bar of Ivory
soap to draw birds in flight on the exterior brick wall of the hospital.
It could’ve been any animal in the Anderson lexicon, an alligator, a crab, a fish, but it was a bird. The freest of all the animals. To be that driven by art must be the ultimate freeing.
He spent
the remainder of his days out of the institution as free as a bird, free to
create, free to paint, free from anything that wasn’t art. Free to soar.
Growing up
in the house of an artist was much tougher for the Anderson children that it
was for me. Though they know, as I know, to live a dedicated life with laser
focus and purpose is the ultimate freedom and— in the fullness of time— the
ultimate gift to family, to friends, and to the world.
The new
coffee table book, “Walter Anderson: The Extraordinary Life and Art of the
Islander” by Robert St. John and Anthony Thaxton is released this week and is
in independent books stores and gift shops across the state.
Shrimp and Okra Gumbo
1 /2 cup Canola oil
3 /4 cup Flour
3 Tbl File powder
1 cup Onion, diced
1 /2 cup Celery, diced
1 /2 cup Bell pepper, diced
1 1 /2 cups Fresh okra, sliced
2 Tbl Garlic, minced
1 1 /2 lbs Shrimp, small
2 tsp Salt
1 1 /2 tsp Black pepper
2 tsp Creole Seasoning
1 1 /2 tsp Basil, dry
1 tsp Thyme, dry
1 cup Tomatoes, diced, canned or fresh
2 quarts Shrimp stock
1 Tbl Hot Sauce
1 /4 tsp Cayenne pepper
In a large skillet, combine oil, flour and file powder to
form a roux. Cook over medium heat, stirring often until roux is very dark (be
careful not to burn). Add vegetables, garlic, spices and shrimp and continue to cook
for five to seven minutes, stirring constantly to prevent burning.
Meanwhile, bring shrimp stock and tomatoes to a boil. Slowly
add roux mixture to boiling stock and mix well. Lower heat to a slow simmer and
cook 10 more minutes. Add hot sauce and cayenne pepper.
Yield: 1 gallon
14 comments:
Great article. Congratulations to Robert and others who made possible the Walter Anderson documentary recently aired on PBS. I was enthralled as I watched it.
Now, about that gumbo recipe - I thought you never cooked the file, you just serve it as a side condiment at the table or put a little in each individual serving bowl. The gumbo becomes too thick if the file is cooked, and the leftovers don't taste good. Am I misinformed about this?
He should pay KF ad rates for his hidden agenda of hawking his book about Anderson.
Walter Anderson is like William Faulkner.
I find their personal life to be more interesting than their works.
Approaching the magic hour is a great book about him. But he did try to kill his baby and wife. Clearly he was an artistic genius with mental issues. But I love his work and am thankful for it.
"Now, about that gumbo recipe - I thought you never cooked the file, you just serve it as a side condiment at the table or put a little in each individual serving bowl. The gumbo becomes too thick if the file is cooked, and the leftovers don't taste good. Am I misinformed about this?"
Creole ("city," old French/Spanish creole) seafood gumbo doesn't have okra, the stock is cooked much longer (several hours) with any seafood except in-shell crab ("gumbo" crabs) added at the end, and in any case, there shouldn't be both okra and file unless it is to a very unique personal taste. File should not be cooked. If the whole pot will be served, you can add it immediately prior to serving if all like the same amount of file. The better practice is to sprinkle it to taste on hot rice and ladle the hot gumbo over it. The file is both a thickener and a seasoning, so like most other seasonings, individual tastes vary.
Anderson chose art over family (responsibility). I'm often sad at the glory the artist, CEO, etc. gets at the expense of their family.
Nice article and memories, but way too long. It's as if he wants to say something else but never concludes. In 'chef speak', at some point you should stop adding stuff to the pot. An article should not be a novel.
St. John's stories are usually interesting, but the telling of his life story in every column he puts out is approaching levels of Navin R. Johnson in the opening scene of The Jerk.
Putting pieces of crap on high is the liberal way. This guy may have been a talent but at the end of the day he was your average worthless piece of crap who put himself in front of his family and even tried too kill them. RSJ should re-think his hero worship a bit.
8:13 - The man writes as if he actually believes people in dark European libraries, sitting in plush chairs, will be reading his 'works'....and he needs to constantly lay the groundwork, by way of introduction, as to who he is, as it were. Sort of like introducing the noon Rotary speaker to those waiting on their chicken and green beans.
Great story Robert. My wife is an artist, too. We have enjoyed the Walter Anderson exhibits on the coast many times and will likely go again sometime this year. It makes for an enjoyable afternoon, hopefully followed by an excellent meal at one of the many restaurants on the coast.
I wish Mr. Kingfish could figure out how to allow us to post photos in our comments. This Okra and chicken fritter is tasty and looks great too.
By the way, excellent gumbo recipe Robert.
Creole Okra and Chicken Fritters
Need:
2 cups cut okra – ok to use frozen
1 cup chopped onion
1 cup chopped Bell Pepper
3 cloves garlic, chopped fine
4 chicken tenders (OK) or two chicken thighs (Better), minus skin
3/4 cup butter milk
1 egg
2 cups LA Fish Fry
2 Teaspoons Tony Chachere’s Creole Seasoning
1 teaspoon salt
2 Teaspoons Black Pepper
Oil for Frying
Directions
In a heavy skillet over medium heat with a small amount of oil, sauté the chicken pieces, seasoned with half of the Slap Ya Momma’s. When it is fully cooked, remove from heat and chop in 1/4 inch pieces. Set aside and allow it to cool.
Add enough oil to have 3 tablespoons in the skillet and sauté the okra pieces with salt and remainder of Slap Ya Momma, stirring occasionally until they dry out and begin to fall apart. If you cook the okra this way, there will be no slime when the okra is done. As the okra begins to fall apart, add the Onion and when it begins to soften, add the green pepper and minced garlic. Continue cooking until the vegetables are tender.
Remove from heat to a mixing bowl. Add egg, LA Fish Fry, black pepper and stir the mixture while slowly adding buttermilk, until you get a thick batter. Deep fry in spoon sized portions, turning the fritters when they brown on one side. Drain on paper towels. Alternately, you can pan fry in a lesser amount of oil.
I appreciate only a few negative comments follow my recipe comments.
You didn't mention your preferred brand of buttermilk. Other than that...blah.
Sorry. I forgot but happy to help the culinary challenged. Kroger Buttermilk is good stuff. Walmart maybe. If you can find it, Piggly Wiggly or Sunflower (There still is one in Raymond) is really good.
Some posting here do not realize that Walter Anderson suffered from schizophrenia, and at a time when it was less understood and less effectively treated. His widow wrote a very moving account of Anderson, Approaching the Magic Hour, which I highly recommend for anyone who is interested in Anderson and his work. Her dedication to him, her care of him, and her family, dealing with an incredibly talented artist who also suffered from a serious mental illness was truly remarkable. The idea that he chose his art over his family is not really an accurate picture of a complex situation caused by his mental illness.
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