Wednesday, January 3, 2024

Robert St. John: Next Up in New Orleans

I have often wondered what it must have been like to have attended the Beatles first live performance as a group at the Cavern Club in Liverpool in 1961. I would have loved to have been in the gallery on the 18th green at Tiger Woods’ first PGA win at the 1996 Las Vegas Invitational. The same goes for Michael Jordan’s entrĂ©e into the NBA, Joe Montana’s first start in the NFL, and Mickey Mantle’s first at bat in the Majors.

As I ponder those various scenarios I wonder if I would have known— in the moment— that I was in the presence of future greatness?

Some may say it’s too early to call, but I’d be willing to lay a month’s salary on the belief that I dined in the presence of future greatness last week at the newly reimagined Emeril’s restaurant in New Orleans. And it’s not necessarily the restaurant— although I think it now stands atop the New Orleans fine dining hierarchy— but the chef. And it’s probably not the chef of whom you’re thinking.

Celebrity Chef, Emeril Lagasse, one of the most well-known, recognizable, and multi-talented chefs in the country— and certainly the most noted and celebrated in New Orleans— has been a mainstay on the Crescent City’s food scene since his days at Commander’s Palace in the early 1980s. His flagship restaurant in the Warehouse District has spawned dozens of other concepts from Las Vegas to Orlando. I’ve been an avid admirer of Emeril, and his restaurants, from day one. But great restaurants aren’t all Lagasse has spawned. His son, 20-year-old Chef E.J. Lagasse, now manning the pass of his father’s namesake establishment, is one of the most impressive culinarians— regardless of age— I have met in my 43-year restaurant career.

Lagasse the younger has a resume that most 40-year-old chefs would covet. While most kids his age were spending summers riding bikes, playing video games, and hanging out at swimming pools, E.J. spent three summers in his early teens in the New York kitchens of the country’s most talented French chefs, Eric Rippert and Daniel Boulud. After graduating high school early and graduating from culinary school at his father’s alma mater, Johnson & Wales, he headed to Europe and staged in two separate Michelin three-star kitchens in Stockholm and London.

I first met E.J. Lagasse in the summer of 2022 while he was working at Emeril’s Coastal in the Florida Panhandle. My family and I were sitting at the food bar overlooking the kitchen— as I used to in the original Emeril’s years ago— and could tell by the way he carried himself in the kitchen that he was wise and experienced with a presence and self-assurance that belied his years. It was confidence without a trace of cockiness, a rare trait, especially in someone so young.



 

My family and I dined at Emeril’s this past summer, before they were set to close for a complete overhaul of the kitchen, dining room, menu, and general culinary philosophy. We were told that a major renovation of the restaurant was on the way, but the menu had already changed slightly with E.J. acting as Chef Patron. One could feel bigger changes on the horizon buzzing through the team.

Emeril was 23 when he took over as executive chef at Commander’s. E.J. bested that by three years at his father’s establishment. E.J. Lagasse is 20 going on 50 and one of the most impressive young men I have met— chef, or not.

Last week my family and I dined at Emeril’s 2.0. From the preparation, presentation, professionalism, and obvious skill level across the board, to the china, glassware, and silver paired with every course, Emeril’s 2023 is in altogether different league. In a city known for fine dining, but typically on a more relaxed level, this is New York and Paris-level fine dining excellence. I have toured the kitchens at The French Laundry and Per Se as well as several other Michelin three-star establishments and the facilities the father and son team of Emeril and E.J. have built— in a glassed-in fully visible kitchen from every spot in the dining room— rivals any I have seen.

Most of the former front-of-the-house veterans appear to be back, but the kitchen payroll seems to have doubled from the 1.0 version of the restaurant. The dining room is smaller and has fewer tables. According to E.J. they have gone from 400+ covers a night to 54. The economics of that change— from a business and financial standpoint— would be enough to make most restaurateurs overly anxious. But one can tell that the entire team at Emeril’s has bought into the father and son’s vision and mission. I have always believed that success follows passion, and there is enough passion in that building to fuel a couple of restaurants.

The menu is next-level and the service— from the initial tour of the kitchen to survey the evening’s ingredients that are to be used over the course of your meal to the tableside cheese cart— is polished and professional. Emeril’s is, in this columnist’s opinion, the best fine dining restaurant in the city, and possibly the entire South.

The current buzz is that New Orleans might be the next city covered by Michelin (way overdue). If that’s the case, I couldn’t imagine the newly reimagined Emeril’s being anything less than a two-star establishment.

My son, who is now in his second year of culinary school in upstate New York, is set to start his externship at Emerils in a few weeks. It will be nice to have him closer to home, though— as his career path goes— it will be even better to have him work in an environment where the son has an opportunity to surpass the father, which has been my dream for him since he first started discussing a future career in the restaurant business in his early teens.

Greatness must begin somewhere. That initial Beatles performance was probably a little rough around the edges. Mantle went 1-for-4 with an RBI and a run scored— an average day. Montana had a mediocre outing in his first start going 13 of 23 for 96 yards and a touchdown. E.J. Lagasse has hit a grand slam on his first at bat with the newly reimagined Emeril’s.

I’m not sure if we’re witnessing “future” greatness at all. It seems the greatness has already landed.

Onward.

Lobster and Brie Bisque

2 1-1/2-pound lobsters, cooked and cleaned (reserve meat for soup and shells for stock)

1 cup white wine

1/2 gallon lobster stock

1 cup tomato paste

2 cups whipping cream

1 bay leaf

1 pound brie, rind removed and cubed

1/2 teaspoon dried thyme or 2 teaspoons fresh chopped thyme

1/4 cup butter

1/3 cup flour

1/2 cup sour cream

2–3 tablespoons fresh chives, chopped

In a large saucepan, bring the lobster stock, white wine, and tomato paste to a boil. Continue to cook, allowing stock to reduce by half.

Meanwhile, in a double boiler, heat the cream and cheese together until the cheese has melted. In a medium-size skillet, heat the butter and add flour to make a blond roux. Once stock has reduced, add cream and cheese mixture to the stock. Add roux and bring to a boil. Lower heat and add reserved lobster meat.

Ladle soup into serving bowls and garnish with sour cream and freshly chopped chives.

Yield: 3 quarts


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Trollfest '09

Trollfest '07 was such a success that Jackson Jambalaya will once again host Trollfest '09. Catch this great event which will leave NE Jackson & Fondren in flames. Othor Cain and his band, The Black Power Structure headline the night while Sonjay Poontang returns for an encore performance. Former Frank Melton bodyguard Marcus Wright makes his premier appearance at Trollfest singing "I'm a Sweet Transvestite" from "The Rocky Horror Picture Show." Kamikaze will sing his new hit, “How I sold out to da Man.” Robbie Bell again performs: “Mamas, don't let your babies grow up to be Bells” and “Any friend of Ed Peters is a friend of mine”. After the show, Ms. Bell will autograph copies of her mug shot photos. In a salute to “Dancing with the Stars”, Ms. Bell and Hinds County District Attorney Robert Smith will dance the Wango Tango.

Wrestling returns, except this time it will be a Battle Royal with Othor Cain, Ben Allen, Kim Wade, Haley Fisackerly, Alan Lange, and “Big Cat” Donna Ladd all in the ring at the same time. The Battle Royal will be in a steel cage, no time limit, no referee, and the losers must leave town. Marshand Crisler will be the honorary referee (as it gives him a title without actually having to do anything).


Meet KIM Waaaaaade at the Entergy Tent. For five pesos, Kim will sell you a chance to win a deed to a crack house on Ridgeway Street stuffed in the Howard Industries pinata. Don't worry if the pinata is beaten to shreds, as Mr. Wade has Jose, Emmanuel, and Carlos, all illegal immigrants, available as replacements for the it. Upon leaving the Entergy tent, fig leaves will be available in case Entergy literally takes everything you have as part of its Trollfest ticket price adjustment charge.

Donna Ladd of The Jackson Free Press will give several classes on learning how to write. Smearing, writing without factchecking, and reporting only one side of a story will be covered. A donation to pay their taxes will be accepted and she will be signing copies of their former federal tax liens. Ms. Ladd will give a dramatic reading of her two award-winning essays (They received The Jackson Free Press "Best Of" awards.) "Why everything is always about me" and "Why I cover murders better than anyone else in Jackson".

In the spirit of helping those who are less fortunate, Trollfest '09 adopts a cause for which a portion of the proceeds and donations will be donated: Keeping Frank Melton in his home. The “Keep Frank Melton From Being Homeless” booth will sell chances for five dollars to pin the tail on the jackass. John Reeves has graciously volunteered to be the jackass for this honorable excursion into saving Frank's ass. What's an ass between two friends after all? If Mr. Reeves is unable to um, perform, Speaker Billy McCoy has also volunteered as when the word “jackass” was mentioned he immediately ran as fast as he could to sign up.


In order to help clean up the legal profession, Adam Kilgore of the Mississippi Bar will be giving away free, round-trip plane tickets to the North Pole where they keep their bar complaint forms (which are NOT available online). If you don't want to go to the North Pole, you can enjoy Brant Brantley's (of the Mississippi Commission on Judicial Performance) free guided tours of the quicksand field over by High Street where all complaints against judges disappear. If for some reason you are unable to control yourself, never fear; Judge Houston Patton will operate his jail where no lawyers are needed or allowed as you just sit there for minutes... hours.... months...years until he decides he is tired of you sitting in his jail. Do not think Judge Patton is a bad judge however as he plans to serve free Mad Dog 20/20 to all inmates.

Trollfest '09 is a pet-friendly event as well. Feel free to bring your dog with you and do not worry if your pet gets hungry, as employees of the Jackson Zoo will be on hand to provide some of their animals as food when it gets to be feeding time for your little loved one.

Relax at the Fox News Tent. Since there are only three blonde reporters in Jackson (being blonde is a requirement for working at Fox News), Megan and Kathryn from WAPT and Wendy from WLBT will be on loan to Fox. To gain admittance to the VIP section, bring either your Republican Party ID card or a Rebel Flag. Bringing both and a torn-up Obama yard sign will entitle you to free drinks served by Megan, Wendy, and Kathryn. Get your tickets now. Since this is an event for trolls, no ID is required. Just bring the hate. Bring the family, Trollfest '09 is for EVERYONE!!!

This is definitely a Beaver production.


Note: Security provided by INS.

Trollfest '07

Jackson Jambalaya is the home of Trollfest '07. Catch this great event which promises to leave NE Jackson & Fondren in flames. Sonjay Poontang and his band headline the night with a special steel cage, no time limit "loser must leave town" bout between Alan Lange and "Big Cat"Donna Ladd following afterwards. Kamikaze will perform his new song F*** Bush, he's still a _____. Did I mention there was no referee? Dr. Heddy Matthias and Lori Gregory will face off in the undercard dueling with dangling participles and other um, devices. Robbie Bell will perform Her two latest songs: My Best Friends are in the Media and Mama's, Don't Let Your Babies Grow up to be George Bell. Sid Salter of The Clarion-Ledger will host "Pin the Tail on the Trial Lawyer", sponsored by State Farm.

There will be a hugging booth where in exchange for your young son, Frank Melton will give you a loooong hug. Trollfest will have a dunking booth where Muhammed the terrorist will curse you to Allah as you try to hit a target that will drop him into a vat of pig grease. However, in the true spirit of Separate But Equal, Don Imus and someone from NE Jackson will also sit in the dunking booth for an equal amount of time. Tom Head will give a reading for two hours on why he can't figure out who the hell he is. Cliff Cargill will give lessons with his .80 caliber desert eagle, using Frank Melton photos as targets. Tackleberry will be on hand for an autograph session. KIM Waaaaaade will be passing out free titles and deeds to crackhouses formerly owned by The Wood Street Players.

If you get tired come relax at the Fox News Tent. To gain admittance to the VIP section, bring either your Republican Party ID card or a Rebel Flag. Bringing both will entitle you to free drinks.Get your tickets now. Since this is an event for trolls, no ID is required, just bring the hate. Bring the family, Trollfest '07 is for EVERYONE!!!

This is definitely a Beaver production.

Note: Security provided by INS
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